We need another oil thread!

[Ironheadziggy76]

Well not really, but I thought I would share. :lol

The last oil change in my V-Strom I thought I would try one of the upper end oils out there now. I have been using Shell Rotella synthetic with pretty good results. No metal on the drain plug, but I could tell when I needed to change oil without looking at the odometer. The shifting would get a little notchy at about 2,500 miles, same as when I used Mobil 1 motorcycle oil on the Alaska trip, (the only motorcycle oil I could find in Canada at Wally World as they didn't have Rotella synthetic). I change oil at 3,000 miles even though everyone claims you can go 5,000 with synthetic.

Every Strom I've heard seems to have a bit of mechanical whirring, clutch noises, etc. I guess it's part of it's charm. :)

I went with Repsol 10W40 full synthetic and was very surprised at how it seems to quiet some of the engine noises. The shifting is like butter as of now, I'm easing up on the 2,000 mark so we'll see if it continues to shift as slickly at 3,000 as it is now. In the old days I used Bel-Ray synthetic in my Honda V-65 Sabre with good results. It had about 132,000 miles on it when I gave it to my brother, so I'm a believer in good oil. I was going to go back with Bel-Ray, but decided to try the Repsol instead. I'll update this at oil change time.

This post isn't meant to be a debate over who has the best oil, but simply an evaluation of this particular brand in case anyone was considering it. If you use Extra Virgin Olive Oil and it works for you, that's great! :p

[G wizz]

I'm also a beliver in synthetic oil. We use Amsoil 20-50 in all our bikes, and is what I recomend to people that bring their Harleys in for an oil change ... P^

G

[bigTom]

I agree. We need another oil thread:)

[Peacekeeper]

There are some UOA's posted over at Bob the Oil guy on various oils used in various motors. Different bikes have different needs, air cooled, water cooled, high rev, low rev, city driving, hwy driving. I played around with all the designer oils and really saw no difference in anything. I ended up with Valvoline VR-1 petro base due to its availability, price and it bought back the best wear numbers in the UOA's. Blew away M-1 and Amsoil. 140,000 miles on a stock TC-88 and still running like the day it was new, never let me down on the road.

[Aldawg]

What happened to the old oil thread? N.E.R.T. perhaps..Anyway, I've been using Shell Rotella full synthetic on my 08 FJR, @every 5k since the begining, with no problems whatsoever. As a matter of fact on it's most recent trip to the mechanic (ground spider recall) I had him change out the plugs, after 30k miles he said they look perfect, and to keep doing whatever I was the same.

[Whosoever]

What happened to the old oil thread? N.E.R.T. perhaps..Anyway, I've been using Shell Rotella full synthetic on my 08 FJR, @every 5k since the begining, with no problems whatsoever. As a matter of fact on it's most recent trip to the mechanic (ground spider recall) I had him change out the plugs, after 30k miles he said they look perfect, and to keep doing whatever I was the same.

I have an 06 FJR and have often thought about going with a synthetic but heard so many scare stories about slipping clutches and the like. So I have stayed with the Yamaha Oils. I have friends who use synthetics in their Goldwings but I've always been a chicken trying them in the FJR.

[Ironheadziggy76]

I have an 06 FJR and have often thought about going with a synthetic but heard so many scare stories about slipping clutches and the like. So I have stayed with the Yamaha Oils. I have friends who use synthetics in their Goldwings but I've always been a chicken trying them in the FJR.

Whosoever, as long as the oil you want to use doesn't have "Friction Modifiers" in it's additive package you will be fine. That is where you get the clutch slippage. A lot of my friends with ATV's had issues with this very thing as they were using auto oils that had friction modifiers in them. Shell Rotella synthetic has no friction modifiers as it's primarily a diesel engine oil, which works well in motorcycles, especially air cooled models like older ATVs. I use Rotella in both of my ATVs and so far it's worked out great. The oil seems to stay cleaner between changes and I've yet to see any metal specs in the oil filters when inspecting them with under magnification.

Let's face it, any modern oil will provide lubrication for your engine, some just do it a little better than others. I try to use better quality oils because when I buy a vehicle I tend to keep them longer than most people do. :p My wife is worse than I am, her car has almost 298,000 miles on it and I don't see her parting with it any time soon. :rolleyes:

[G wizz]

My wife is worse than I am, her car has almost 298,000 miles on it and I don't see her parting with it any time soon. :rolleyes:

Hey Ziggy ...
Out of curiousity ... What are you using for oil in LaJuanas car?

[Whosoever]

Whosoever, as long as the oil you want to use doesn't have "Friction Modifiers" in it's additive package you will be fine. That is where you get the clutch slippage. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the insight Ziggy....I'm a lot like that...tend to drive vehicles until parts aren't available. One more thing....what do I look for on the back of the bottle of oil that indicates Friction Modifiers?

[quadancer]

Make friends with or become an Amsoil dealer and you get a decent price on a great oil. Otherwise, I look for deals on Mobil-1 as the second best. One thing tho, you have to get used to the noisy upper end with synthetics, but it's not parts rubbing; just the character of all molecules being the same size, unlike dino oil.
One oil I will NEVER use again is Castrol - evidently you get whatever they got a good deal on to put in their bottles; I don't know the whole story, but I saw my oil (20/50) turn into virtually WATER in the time it took to heat up. Drained it and tried it in my pressure washer pump - same thing - got REALLY thin on warmup, so I gotta drain it out of THAT too. $23 wasted.

[Ironheadziggy76]

Hey Ziggy ...
Out of curiousity ... What are you using for oil in LaJuanas car?

George, I've used Valvoline in it since the first oil change. After it got quite a few miles on it I switched to Valvoline Max Life synthetic blend when it came out. The little Camry is sort of like the Energizer Bunny, it just keeps going! :lol

[Ironheadziggy76]

Thanks for the insight Ziggy....I'm a lot like that...tend to drive vehicles until parts aren't available. One more thing....what do I look for on the back of the bottle of oil that indicates Friction Modifiers?

Pat, it will have as some call it a "Donut" that states the oil is an "Energy Conserving Oil". Here is a link to a page that has a picture of one on the left side of the page.

http://www.api.org/aboutoilgas/motoroil/api-quality-marks.cfm

Most of the Energy Conserving oils are the lighter weights like the 5w20 that a lot of the newer cars are using lately.

[kdf9511]

I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 in all my bikes. On the Magna I use a O'Rilles filter made by Puralator and will probably use the same filter on The Wing when I change the oil.

[Ironheadziggy76]

I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 in all my bikes. On the Magna I use a O'Rilles filter made by Puralator and will probably use the same filter on The Wing when I change the oil.

Kerry, I've read several reviews stating that Purolator filters were the best to use on V-Stroms, after inspecting, cutting them apart, etc. P^

I use Rotella in both of my ATV's and used it in the Strom up to the last oil change. It's an excellent oil, and the price is hard to beat compared to bike only oils. I thought it was odd when on the AK trip that I couldn't find it in synthetic in AK or Canada in the places I looked. I figured with all the truck traffic they have, you could find it anywhere. I did find it at a Shell bulk distributor in Dawson Creek, but they wanted over $50.00 a gallon for it. :rolleyes:

[Dusty Boots]

Thanks for the insight Ziggy........what do I look for on the back of the bottle of oil that indicates Friction Modifiers?

Pat .... this is what you are looking to stay away from (usually located on the front, or rear of the bottle)



http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3456/3821084418_59cf93c626_o.gif

Like others here, I use a deisel oil in my bike.
I 1st tried the Shell Rotella T-6 synthethic 5W40, (http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/t6/) but couldn't get it out of my bike fast enough. :(
I switched to Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40 (http://www.deloperformance.com/products/engine-oils.aspx#product1) and the bike(and myself) have been very happy with it for the past 85,000+ miles. ;)

Dusty

[lytle1gw]

i use mobil one 20/50 V/twin synthetic and a K/P reusable oil filter and is working great 75K on electra/glide as of now and have had no problems and magnet is clean on oil changes so not much wear.

[Ironheadziggy76]

i use mobil one 20/50 V/twin synthetic and a K/P reusable oil filter and is working great 75K on electra/glide as of now and have had no problems and magnet is clean on oil changes so not much wear.

Gary, I also use Mobil 1 in my Road King, but I'd like to hear a little more about your oil filter. Is this the one you are using?

http://www.motorcycle.com/products/kp-engineerings-reusable-oil-filter-71983.html

[Whosoever]

Pat .... this is what you are looking to stay away from (usually located on the front, or rear of the bottle)



http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3456/3821084418_59cf93c626_o.gif

Like others here, I use a deisel oil in my bike.
I 1st tried the Shell Rotella T-6 synthethic 5W40, (http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/t6/) but couldn't get it out of my bike fast enough. :(
I switched to Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40 (http://www.deloperformance.com/products/engine-oils.aspx#product1) and the bike(and myself) have been very happy with it for the past 85,000+ miles. ;)

Dusty
Dusty thanks to you and Ziggy for this info....this has always been a point of confusion with me. This really makes it clear.

[lytle1gw]

Yep Steve thats the oil filter that I bought and have been using, little expensive at first but it has paid for itself many times over. When ya figure paying 16.95 for a k/n filter it doesn't take long to offset the price of the K/P filter. I think I paid 129.00 for mine with extra seals. I have noticed that since usng the K/P that the oil pressue gauge reads a higher oil pressure than before. Cleanup is real easy, my one boy had a friend here last time I was changing oil and he wants to get on for his truck after seeing how it worked. Plus the dang thing just looks cool with the cooling rings cut into it. Course mine is usally so dirty that its not to noticable. I have been changing the oil every 3000 or so and like I said the magnet is not picking up much wear stuff. Gonna give a tank full run today as its the last warm and pretty day for quite awhile.P^

[G wizz]

Yep Steve thats the oil filter that I bought and have been using, I have noticed that since usng the K/P that the oil pressue gauge reads a higher oil pressure than before.

Humm ... You are getting a higher oil pressure reading .. :confused:
That would lead me to belive the filter is restricting the flow somewhat to cause to oil pressure to rise.
Don't see where that would be advantageous ...

Just my thoughts ...

G

[lytle1gw]

Suggest that it will filter out smaller particles. I can go for that.

[Flashdog]

That's an interesting filter design. I love the built in magnet to catch the ferrous medals. I have always liked how BMW put magnetic drain plugs in some of their engines, trannys, and rear drives. Moto Guzzi too.

On the other hand, KP claims higher flow rates and lower restriction while using what looks to be less actual surface area based on the pleating in their photographs. The website then talks about the 35 micron rating vs. the 5 micron rating of paper filters. What I come away with is less filtering capability as the really small stuff is getting through. If anyone is getting higher oil pressure I'd find a way to back flush that reusable filter.

[mark444]

Speaking of magnets.........I found an old, powerful "O-shaped" magnet in the shop. It sticks to the end of the Vstrom oil filter perfectly!! Don't know if it's doing any good, but sure makes a great conversation piece at rallys!!!!! :D

[BeemMeUp]

Speaking of magnets.........I found an old, powerful "O-shaped" magnet in the shop. It sticks to the end of the Vstrom oil filter perfectly!! Don't know if it's doing any good, but sure makes a great conversation piece at rallys!!!!! :D

It might help trigger those dang traffic light coils at some intersections also ....