Installing a 12volt Cigarette Lighter Socket?

[BELOWaverageBOB]

The forum's search didn't come up with anything so here I go.

Has anyone here mounted or installed a 12volt accessory socket? There is one up front from the factory but I am looking to put one in my luggage rack on the back of the bike so I could charge my phone or just to have easy access to 12V DC power.

In case you aren't privvy to what I'm talking about 12V Cigarette Lighter Socket (http://www.12volt-travel.com/12-volt-6-extension-power-cord-with-cigarette-lighter-socket-p-4345.html). I want to mount it on the inside of the luggage compartment, any ideas?:confused:

[Trailace]

The forum's search didn't come up with anything so here I go.

Has anyone here mounted or installed a 12volt accessory socket? There is one up front from the factory but I am looking to put one in my luggage rack on that back of the bike so I could charge my phone or just to have easy access to 12V DC power.

In case you aren't privvy to what I'm talking about 12V Cigarette Lighter Socket (http://www.12volt-travel.com/12-volt-6-extension-power-cord-with-cigarette-lighter-socket-p-4345.html). I want to mount it on the inside of the luggage compartment, any ideas?:confused:

You can find everything you need to do it on the Beaver Power site (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Powerlet/powerlet.html). This should take you to the page you need.

[BELOWaverageBOB]

Oh wow, they have kits that come with all the hardware! Nice thank you for the resource!
I wanted to make the connection from the luggage rack to the frame removable and I see that they include connectors for that, thank you!

[Indianscout]

Great site Trailace, unfortunately they no longer handle the powerbar that would work on my old bike. Looks like I may have to figure something else out for now. Thanks.

[bigTom]

I have installed a couple over the years, and I suggest you go to a Boat Shop and get Marine Grade stuff. Just sayin..

That said, you can't beat Jim and Eastern Beaver...

[VStromTom]

Boat stuff will have some water seal/cap. Just make sure you have an in-line fuse close to the battery if your connection is at the battery. If you want something switched, look for a radio lead behind your fairing, or tie it into a running light/brake light. Damn near lost a bike cause a fuse cap on the plug of a gps vibrated off (I checked it several times each day) and went to ground in a cig lighter socket. Not a pretty sight especially if you react the wrong way. DAMHIK.

[Ironheadziggy76]

I have two cigarette sockets in the fairing of the Strom and a Powerlet socket in the sidecover. One of the cig sockets is a Powerlet brand and the other is from a boat supplier, they both work equally well other than the Powerlet brand was easier to mount and the rubber weatherproof cover is much better. Since you are mounting it inside your luggage I wouldn't be as concerned with it being as waterproof, as I would it being a good tight socket.

Here is another link to a site with some plugs, sockets, etc.

http://www.whitehorsegear.com/powerlet?SID=2v24maimpmh7s2floj4e8323j2

Here is Powerlet's site just for reference.

http://www.powerlet.com/

[Dusty Boots]

I have installed a few on my bike(6) and all but 2 of them are controlled by a pair of 40 amp relays(triggered by the accessory fuse on my bikes fuse panel) so there is no draining of the battery if I forget to turn off what ever is being powered, when I switch off my ignition. One of the always 'hot' outlets is a BMW style outlet I have for my heated clothing and the other is a cigarette lighter that I can plug my battery tender in to and charge the battery directly that way, if I don't want to make the connection I have underneath my fuel filler door.
I run a lot of electrical accessories and therefore I run a Compu-Fire alternator that pumps out almost 3 x the 'juice'(90 amps) a normal Goldwing alternator puts out(35 amps).
I have a completely independent aux wiring system that I wired up, with two 6 slot fuse blocks. That way, if ever I blow a fuse on one of my accessories, it won't disable the bike and I'm not overloading the bikes OEM wiring harness.

It's worked well these past 4 years, allowing me to run my MP3, GPs etc and charge up my Laptop/Cell/rechargeable batteries etc, when I'm on the move.

This one is inside my left fairing pocket

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4547097974_06a9fbdf61_o.jpg

This one on my right dash is always 'hot'

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4547097898_a494318ec9_o.jpg


I have a 'duplex' one in my tour box


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4547097802_58d25db568_o.jpg


and then these ones on a 'filler panel', on the side


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3446/3972952938_6dab42cc00_o.jpg

This is the 'schematics' of my aux wiring system


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4290574600_bd4c97bbc6_o.jpg


Dusty

[Indianscout]

Just checked on a powerbar off of the powerlet site. Did I read this correctly at $129.00 each!?!?

[BELOWaverageBOB]

I have installed a couple over the years, and I suggest you go to a Boat Shop and get Marine Grade stuff. Just sayin..

That said, you can't beat Jim and Eastern Beaver...

Boat stuff will have some water seal/cap. Just make sure you have an in-line fuse close to the battery if your connection is at the battery. If you want something switched, look for a radio lead behind your fairing, or tie it into a running light/brake light. Damn near lost a bike cause a fuse cap on the plug of a gps vibrated off (I checked it several times each day) and went to ground in a cig lighter socket. Not a pretty sight especially if you react the wrong way. DAMHIK.

That's a good point, the last thing I want is water to short me out while going down the road or start an electrical fire. A fuse is a must with any wiring so that is covered, I was originally going to use Silicon Adhesive for the connections and sealing the luggage compartment. Not sure just yet still in the planning phase.

[Dusty Boots]

When I drilled through my trunk, I drilled the hole slightly oversize and used a rubber grommet and then threaded the wire through. I needed a little lube to make it slide easier, as it was a tight fit. I soldered and shrink tubed all connections on mine and use split wire looms.

As for the quick disconnect, you could always use a 12" SAE to SAE connector (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/SAE_Connectors/sae_connectors.html) and cut it in half, wiring one end to a fused power source and the other to your outlet leads. P^

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/SAE_Connectors/sae-sae-12.jpg

Dusty

[BELOWaverageBOB]

^ Hey, that's a darn good idea with cutting the connector in two! I happen to have a few around here for old power wheels that have died over the years. Did you have to go to a marine place for the rubber grommet\booty?

[Dusty Boots]

I got mine in a store up here, called Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/trailer/trailer/trailer/trailer-wiring/4210675-30-pc-rubber-wiring-grommets), which is very similar to your Harbor Freight. I know HF carried then not too long ago, but a quick search just now came up with natta.
Try a local auto parts store, or a hardware centre.

Also, it just blows me away when I see what places like Beaver wants for a fuse block, a 30/40 amp relay and a little bit of wire (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/body_pc-8.html#30akit)! :eek:

You can make your own for about $27 Visit your local auto parts store, or JC Whitney for your fuse block (http://www.jcwhitney.com/fuse-block-6-position/p2005172.jcwx), a 30/40 amp relay (http://www.jcwhitney.com/30-amp-alarm-relay/p2001348.jcwx?filterid=j1) and some wire, connectors, waterproof fuse holder (http://www.princessauto.com/trailer/truck/truck-accessories/truck-electrical/8138257-25/30a-in-line-ato/atc-fuse-holder) and some shrink tubing and make your own! ;)


Dusty

[Ironheadziggy76]

Just checked on a powerbar off of the powerlet site. Did I read this correctly at $129.00 each!?!?

I'm afraid so! :eek: I've been trying to find something to use on the Road King this summer and it looks like I'll be cobbling up something on the windshield frame instead of paying these prices. You can camp for a week for what they want for those handlebar mounts. :mad:

[BELOWaverageBOB]

I'm afraid so! :eek: I've been trying to find something to use on the Road King this summer and it looks like I'll be cobbling up something on the windshield frame instead of paying these prices. You can camp for a week for what they want for those handlebar mounts. :mad:

WOW :eek:, come to think of it when I was a youngin my grand father made handlebar mounts for our mountain bikes using a plastic C clamp and a used inner tube (to protect the paint). Something like that would cost close to 10$ :p may not look as good as a piece that was 130$ but hey that's a lot of gas or a lot of beer.

[Ironheadziggy76]

WOW :eek:, come to think of it when I was a youngin my grand father made handlebar mounts for our mountain bikes using a plastic C clamp and a used inner tube (to protect the paint). Something like that would cost close to 10$ :p may not look as good as a piece that was 130$ but hey that's a lot of gas or a lot of beer.

That's what I'm thinking, I will probably use the $17.00 Powerlet socket and make my own mount. It won't be pretty billet or chrome but it will end up charging the phone and powering the GPS! P^

[BELOWaverageBOB]

^Sounds like a plan, it seems there has been a general lack of creativity and 'DIY' over the last few years in the good old US of A. If I can do it myself I do, if I can't I find out how. It may not be pretty but if it gets the job done and is safe then no complaints!

[kdf9511]

I have used stainless steel conduit hangers like these dipped in some Tool Kote to keep from scratching up the bars. I have also used them to mount things to the frame as well. The stainless is a little bit more expensive than the cheep ones from the hardware store but you don't have to worry about them rusting.

http://stainlesssteelconduit.gibsonstainless.com/viewitems/stainless-steel-straps-hangers/stainless-steel-conduit-hangers?

[BELOWaverageBOB]

I have used stainless steel conduit hangers like these dipped in some Tool Kote to keep from scratching up the bars. I have also used them to mount things to the frame as well. The stainless is a little bit more expensive than the cheep ones from the hardware store but you don't have to worry about them rusting.

http://stainlesssteelconduit.gibsonstainless.com/viewitems/stainless-steel-straps-hangers/stainless-steel-conduit-hangers?

Damn, those are PERFECT for custom bar attachment modifications!

[Indianscout]

OK, so I went down to the hardware store and bought one of those power outlets with the alligator clips on it for $7.00 and an inline Fuse for another $4.00. I'm thinking with some wire and shrink tubing I can make one that'll work for me. The only thing I don't like is the fact that I will have to zip tie it someplace I can get to but yet reasonably protected. The outlet has a cap for it but I would like to keep it out of the elements as much as possible. I can put up with a lot for the price difference between mine and theirs! For a few bucks more I could have a machine shop make the clamp for me and still be way ahead!

[SidecarMike]

I've got a couple of these.

http://02d54de.netsolhost.com/bbblog1/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/sae-2-pin-surface-connect.jpg

I'm trying to find the receipt, but think they were around $5 each

[vfrcapn]

I've got a couple of these.

http://02d54de.netsolhost.com/bbblog1/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/sae-2-pin-surface-connect.jpg

I'm trying to find the receipt, but think they were around $5 each

This link was posted earlier in the thread, http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Powerlet/Tankbag_SAE/tankbag_sae.html

I have one in my tankbag but I think with a little additional silicon sealant and careful drilling it would mount nicely in hard luggage also.