View Full Version : I Too Now Have a Trailer Project
Blues Traveler
11-17-2009, 10:06 PM
Seems everyones getting a trailer or building one themselves. Well I too now have one on the way, should have it next week. Found it in the classifieds of one of the many forums I frequent. Could not believe my eye's when I saw the add:
I used to be a dealer and have this left over. Chassis (running gear) complete with wheel/tire/frame/tongue/coupler. New condition except for shop dirt. Please note: CHASSIS ONLY - THERE IS NO BODY! Photos available. $250.00 plus actual shipping/packaging costs.
Was exsactly what I was looking for. A 1 wheeled trailer with no box! I contacted the owner, sent out a check and its now on the way.
Here's the picture sent to me.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/unigo.jpg
It's one of the originals from New Zealand. Brand new, never been behind a bike. The box went on another (warranty issue) and it went to a shelf where its been sitting for years,
I have plans and an idea of what I want to pull behind my BMW GSA. Stay tuned as I will take many pictures once I get started.
Mellow
11-18-2009, 06:23 AM
That's cool Keith.
Can't wait to see what the body looks like.
aysrav
11-18-2009, 07:18 AM
Great find -- sounds perfect. Good luck with it and be sure to post pics of your progress.
Black and Blue
11-18-2009, 08:35 AM
Wow. Can't wait to see what kind of gadgets will be installed in that trailer of your.:p Good luck.P^
Ironheadziggy76
11-19-2009, 12:23 PM
OH CRAP! :eek: Gee thanks Keith, we will be building a trailer at the same time. Yours will be a miracle of CAD design, stainless steel, titanium, carbon fiber, lazer etching, and solar power! Mine will look like it was built from the book, "Motorcycle Trailers for Redneck Dummies"! :mad:
Seriously, I can't wait to see what you do with this trailer chassis. I have followed your work here and at ADVrider, and I'm a huge fan of your skills! P^
Trailace
11-19-2009, 05:55 PM
Good find can't wait to see what you do with it.
Just one thing I thought Trailers were for boats. Sorry I just have to every once and a while. :p
Blues Traveler
11-19-2009, 09:34 PM
Im going to try and keep it simple ;) But I said that too when I bought the big GSA. I said it would only get a couple of Farkles. Nothing more than a GPS and an XM Radio I said to my friends. After my last bike an ST1100 which had too many Farkles to count the GSA was somewhat doomed. I tried not to Farkle but I could not help myself. This trailer is small and what im really looking to do is get all the camping gear off the bike and into the trailer. Take some of the load off the bike. Clothing, riding gear and food will stay with the bike. Have plans to insulate the right hand Jesse with foam, install a drain and have it shot with Rino Linner. Should make a sizeable removable ice chest.
The trailer box will be made of aluminum sheet probably .063 6061-T6 with lots of seal and rivets. Bottom will be the same only a little thicker, .090. It will be a little wider than a uni-go and have a few built in farkles. I want to be able to bring a BIG GUY chair, preferably a folding rocker. And on occation a bicycle. For a couple years now I have been planning to build a trailer and have collected many cool little dodads and one off's in the way of hardware and such.
Its still all up in the air. Its on the way and should have it by the end of next week. Once in front of me I can do some measuring and go from there.
TWT Rider
11-20-2009, 08:02 PM
Will Unigo sell you a body only? I'm sure you should be able to get for a decent cost, ...my thought anyways
Cheers
Blues Traveler
11-20-2009, 09:03 PM
Will Unigo sell you a body only? I'm sure you should be able to get for a decent cost, ...my thought anyways
Cheers
Don't want it. You loose a lot of space with all those curves and round corners. They do sell just the body and it goes for just a little more than $1100 dollars:eek:. While there I added up all the bits and pieces for what you see pictured and it came to a little more than $1800 dollars. The Uni-go has 5 cubic feet of storage. Making the new box a little wider and deeper and with square corners im hoping for 7-8 cubic feet. With a flat rectangular lid im looking for storage on top too. Threaded inserts in many spots will alow me to move mounting brakets around to where I need them. Replaced my bikes battery with an Odessey dry cell early this year. The old battery still in good shape will find its way into one of those corners on the trailer with the bike keeping both of them charged. When parked the solar pannel will take over.
bigTom
11-21-2009, 06:43 AM
Ahhhh. The first farkle, a self powered trailer.
Looking forward to the plans and execution on this project, Keith.
Blues Traveler
11-29-2009, 08:39 AM
It got here yesterday (Saturday). I must say I expected something larger. Package weighed just 52 lbs. When the Fedx truck pulled up he handed it to me out the side door. I asked if there was a second package. He too looked a little puzzeled when I told him there was a trailer inside of this one little box.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject11-28-09001.jpg
Got out the knife and proceeded to unpack it.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject11-28-09003.jpg
My project table is 4 ft. long and assembled it hangs about 4 inches off each end. So it did get bigger when I got it re-assembled. Right off the bat I can pretty much forget about the bicycle idea.:( I doubt that I will be able to fit one on top.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject11-28-09005.jpg
First thing to do is get the tounge off and move up to its higher position. Once there I'll get it sitting level or shoud I say how its going to sit behind the bike. The box I will make out of cardboard first and then use the cardboard as templates for the aluminum parts.
The box will have a little more room then what comes from Uni-go. The square corners alone should make a BIG difference.
Ironheadziggy76
11-29-2009, 10:34 AM
:Popcorn
Hurry up Keith, I need some ideas to copy! :p
Blues Traveler
12-13-2009, 09:41 PM
Ok, its finally starting to take shape to the point where I thought I should post a couple pictures.
What im doing here is building me a jig. It will be the actual size and shape of what the aluminum box will be.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-13-09013.jpg
I'm using 3/4" pine to get the shape down. The lower back portion of the box is still missing.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-13-09012.jpg
The box will be 24" wide ( 2" wider than a Uni-go) and 33" long. Roughly the same size as a Uni-go only with square corners. Right now the depth is 20" at its lowest point.
Once the shape is done I will make many parts or shouild I say pannels out of aluminum. I can actually use the wooden box as a jig screwing and assembling the aluminum pannels to the box. Once im satisfied with the fit i'll remove all the aluminum pannels, cleco everything together, finish all the drilling and rivet it all together. There will be many stiffeners and doublers and a few bends that will add strength to the box/body.
More to come.
Ironheadziggy76
12-13-2009, 10:15 PM
Just stain it, throw on some marine spar varnish and go with it! :p :D
I can't wait to see this in aluminum!
Blues Traveler
12-14-2009, 09:43 PM
Rear and rear lowers taking shape.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-14-09002.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-14-09004.jpg
There will be storage all the way down on each side of the wheel. Should be about 8" on each side of the wheel.
Mellow
12-15-2009, 08:33 AM
Just a suggestion... you could even make an aerodynamic nose-piece w/separate storage areas for tools... kinda like a harley tank fits over the frame, do the same thing with the front... it's looking good, matches the GS quite well.
Blues Traveler
12-16-2009, 10:53 PM
Just a suggestion... you could even make an aerodynamic nose-piece w/separate storage areas for tools... kinda like a harley tank fits over the frame, do the same thing with the front... it's looking good, matches the GS quite well.
Thanks Joe, it is starting to come right along. Can't wait to start with the aluminum. The wooden jig is getting close to being done.
Got the lower rear done today. Got the degree of angle off my Jesse bags, 31°.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-16-09001.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-16-09004.jpg
As for the front of the box I was reading about the Uni-go on there website. They were saying that the Uni-go sits in the slipstream, inside the wake of the bike totally out of the wind. Leaving it flat will allow me to mount an extra battery just under the tongue in its own little box. On each side in the front will be a tool tube.
Mellow
12-17-2009, 03:38 PM
I'm sure you already know this but you do want to keep the tongue weight to no more than 25 lbs if you can... otherwise, it could cause the front end of your bike to get real light..
Blues Traveler
12-17-2009, 06:48 PM
Keith:
Just wondering ... How much travel does the swing arm on your trailer have? The tire won't rub on the back edge of your trailer body if you were to hit a hard bump (pot hole?) will it?
G wizz
Its not much, Can't be more than 3" there. I know that im going to have to make the cutout a little bigger. And im still not sold onthe shape of the cutout yet. I figure when I start with the aluminum it will change several times before im satisfied. Im probably going to have some sort of stubby little fender hanging out over the top of the tire too.
Blues Traveler
12-17-2009, 06:59 PM
I'm sure you already know this but you do want to keep the tongue weight to no more than 25 lbs if you can... otherwise, it could cause the front end of your bike to get real light..
Actually I was thinking it was a little less. Not much but a little less. 25 lbs. hopefully won't be hard to stay under. I also think I read somewhere that you want at least 14 lbs. on the hitch. My friend Jim carries a 19 qt. cooler were I plan to put the battery. I've seen his in action and he say's he's got it sorted out. If it doesn't workout there i'll have to move it towards the rear. Can't weigh as much as his cooler full of ice and food. I figure its going to take some figuring to get the load/weight properly distributed. As for the tool tubes I have no idea what to put in them. But they will look kind of cool on the front of the trailer. :D
Blues Traveler
12-17-2009, 11:07 PM
Ya know, Keith ... It would look pretty cool with a section of motorcycle front fender curving over the tire ...
Its going to need something. Will have to look through what I got and see what I can find.
Tonight I spent more time attaching the box to the chassis. Pretty sure I got it all tied in.
I did make a couple of pieces front and rear. Sort of finishing off the shape of the bottom.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/12-17-09003.jpg
Ironheadziggy76
12-17-2009, 11:30 PM
You could always go with a mini version of the front beak or the rear tire hugger on your GS.
Trailace
12-19-2009, 08:17 PM
Looks great so far keep us updated.
denny
12-27-2009, 03:06 PM
That's going to be an awesome trailer.
I'd be shopping around for someone to TIG it all together.
That would look so much cooler than rivets.
bigTom
12-27-2009, 07:04 PM
Denny
You haven't seen Keith's work, obviously. The rivets will look great, trust me.
Blues Traveler
12-27-2009, 11:31 PM
Here's a little sample of what I do. Tail section from a Twin Otter getting a high gross treatment. Your looking at the bottom tail end of the fuselage standing tail down, I remade all the skins upgrading the thickness from .025 to .032 . And then shot them up by myself. Not easy but as you can see it can be done by reaching around or accessing the backside through openings for inspection with the bucking bar.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/HG200010.jpg
The trailer we be done basicly the same way only I will be dealing with square flat pannels.
Tomorrow i'll be taking the first piece of material to work to cut on the shear and make the first bend for the rear of the trailer.
So as you can see its time to start with the sheetmetal!
Ironheadziggy76
12-27-2009, 11:55 PM
Don't forget us! :takepics2:
Blues Traveler
12-28-2009, 07:44 AM
Keith ...
Tell me, in your picture of the tail peice ... Were the holes for the rivits
pre punched before you formed it, making it so you could connect the dots, so to speak?
G wizz
Usually everything is layed out by hand and then drilled out. Here the old skins were drilled off and layed out flat over a new piece of material and everything duplicateted. Drilling right into the bench and held in place with cleco's keeping it from shifting. Hopefully it all matches up when clecoed back in place. This paticular otter was made in 1968. A lot of repairs have been made over the last 42 years. A lot of things can go wrong. Just drilling off the old skin can cause all kinds of damage. Oversize holes are commom and more repairs need to be made to the inside structure. Once again in this case I fabricated all new parts inside with thicker material. All new parts, no holes. All part of the high gross package.
BCRider
12-28-2009, 08:39 AM
Kieth when you do this type of repair to an airplane how much is the weight gain? and how does it effect the planes W&B? Sorry for going off topic but I know just enough about this to be curious.
Pete
Blues Traveler
12-28-2009, 06:57 PM
Pete, I don't think it effects the weight gain all that much. The skins and certain internal parts were only increased in thickness .007 of an inch. what it does do is increase the strength of the aircraft allowing it to carry more weight. Weight and Ballance can all be trimmed out. This paticular aircraft recieved several mods. The tail section, wings,fuselage,air conditioning, bigger engines,vista view (BIGGER WINDOWS) window mod, and much more. Everything is enginered to work in the end.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/WarrenOtter11-13-09002.jpg
This plane actually sat in the a swamp for 2 1/2 years somewhere in africa after being nosed in. Someone got it out of the mud and back on its wheels. Manage to make enough repairs and find some brave soul to fly it up here to SoCal for a total rebuild. This picture is about a month old. Its almost done at this point. Has been a lot of work.
Blues Traveler
12-28-2009, 10:31 PM
Its rumored the owner has more money than God.:D Im told its owned by some billionaire in South America. He having it built to fly his family back and forth to his own private island.
I can't imagine what it's costing to do this. The Twin Otter really is a great plane. This one im told will be worth about 2 1/2 million when done. I was pointing out that he's added everything but floats, you've just got to have floats. Was told he didn't need them he had his own landing strip built on the island.
Blues Traveler
12-28-2009, 11:29 PM
OK, took some sheetmetal to work this morning. Made a cut and a bend using the shear and the brake.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/trailerproject002.jpg
This evening I layed out and cut the opening for the rear wheel then clamped in place for now just to make shure my bend was ok. P^
Ironheadziggy76
12-28-2009, 11:33 PM
Looking good! P^
bigTom
12-29-2009, 06:42 AM
It's nice to see the Otter on the big screen, too. I got to look at a couple of pictures on Keith's camera. That's one pretty airplane...
denny
12-29-2009, 04:46 PM
I'll bet with those skills you would not have to shop for a TIG master, if you wanted to do it that way.
Those rivets are very well done and that looks quite labor intensive to me.
I am curious what thickness aluminum you are using for that trailer?
Blues Traveler
12-29-2009, 07:17 PM
I'll be using 6061-T6 with a material thickness of .050. I might go a little thicker on the bottom. .063 maybe. After im satisfied with the box i'll take it down and have the inside Rino lined. The outside front will get the RINO treatment too for rock and road grit protection. There are a few places I might have welded like the corners on top. Might make for a better waterproff seal on the lid. If I do it will be a part/frame made off the trailer then installed. Will see when I get to that point.
It is labor intensive (not really if you've got the tools and knowhow) but IMO is better in this case than welding it all together. With rivets I can have frame work, stringers, stiffeners, and internal parts wherever I want. All parts (most of them) will be shot up wet with a faying surface of PRC sealant between parts. Will be a very strong unit when done.
Mellow
12-29-2009, 07:24 PM
That's cool...
Hey Keith.. you know, wouldn't take much to add some power to the box and a mercury switch to the lid... then a couple of those LEDs I use in mytop box mod (http://www.motocampers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1746) for some light.
Blues Traveler
12-29-2009, 07:33 PM
Joe, I was just looking at your photo's the other night and liked what I saw. This trailer will have its own battery and I do plan on adding lights to the inside. LED's will work perfect and be a very low drain on the battery.
Mellow
12-29-2009, 07:36 PM
Joe, I was just looking at your photo's the other night and liked what I saw. This trailer will have its own battery and I do plan on adding lights to the inside. LED's will work perfect and be a very low drain on the battery.
I think I have a couple of the merc switches laying around.. if you need one pm me your address and it's yours.
Blues Traveler
01-12-2010, 11:19 PM
Finally got the time to go and get the aluminum for the trailer last weekend. Last night I cut one of the pannels in half and layed out a couple bends. This morning I went in early so I could make a couple more cuts on the shear and use the big brake.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-12-10008.jpg
Got bot side pannels rough cut and clamped in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-12-10014.jpg
More layout done this evening. Tomorrow morning a couple more cuts and bends before work.
Ironheadziggy76
01-13-2010, 01:59 AM
Beautiful! P^
motomac
01-13-2010, 06:45 AM
I think Unigo will sell you any of it's parts.
Blues Traveler
01-13-2010, 11:26 PM
Yes it nice having access to the right tools. I have a small finger brake but it just doesn't do the larger parts like the one at work. Wish I had a nice shear. Most of my making parts at home is getting everything cut to size. With a shear it only takes seconds to make a nice staight cut.
Little more each night. Here I have the R/H side trimmed to fit, Also cleaned up the rear a little.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10002.jpg
Loosened all the clamps and got the rear corner seams pulled up tight an trimmed.
bigTom
01-14-2010, 05:12 AM
Jeeze, Keith. That is looking seriously good:) I look forward to seeing it on the trail!
Blues Traveler
01-16-2010, 11:12 PM
Cut and bent a few parts on the brake before work Friday morning. Just a few lengths of angles for the corners.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10007.jpg
Tonight I cut them to length and got the angles on the ends trimmed to match.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10009.jpg
Layed out the holes, drilled em up, clamped them back up and drilled them in place installing cleco's as I went along.
These angles and hole patterns will continue across the bottom and up the front on each side.
Next the front pannel.
Blues Traveler
01-17-2010, 09:26 AM
Keith ...
Was wondering ... Are you going to make the top hinge from the front, or the side? And will you be using gas struts to hold it open?
G wizz
Not sure which way its going to open but im leaning towards a hinge in the front. Even the side would be nice. And yes, I will be using those gas charged stuts. Either way it would be nice to be able to pull the pin on the struts and open the top all the way to create a small table.
I've been sitting on a piece of aluminum skinned honeycomb laminant for over 20 years. Its an inch thick yet very sturdy and light. Recently at work we used something called TECHLAM for a antenna mounting system (somewhat clasified) on a Gulfstream G3. Sort of reminds me of the same stuff only the piece I have is over 20 years old with a thicker aluminum skin. Being a true packrat I throw nothing away :D. It will finally find a home for the lid on the trailer. With a honeycomb core I wont have to build any frame work. This lid/top will be very sturdy and be a big plus for the rack system I have planned.
Mellow
01-17-2010, 09:41 AM
Very cool... I would say stick to lid that hinges on the front... If you have a side or rear hinge and you just happen to forget to latch it down.. the lid could pop open w/side wind and you could loose some stuff, or worse, the lid... IMO...
I've seen may harley side-open trunks accidentally left open and 'stuff' all over the road.
Whosoever
01-17-2010, 07:23 PM
Reading this trailer project of yours is better than watching that TV series.."How It's Made". This is a great report. With that said I must admit I am really in the dark when it comes to doing what you seem to do so easily....you sir are one fine "craftsman". I've noticed that you still have the inner wooden core. Will that stay as part of your construction? And, what about the front part where the body of the frame mounts to the box. Is the chassis built in such a manner where it supports itself and the box will just sit on the chassis? When you are finished with the box, will it be ridgid or will other frame work be added to give it ridgity? I sure hope you have a lot of time to work on this as I am finding myself going back repeatedly to see if there are any updates on the builds progress. Thanks for sharing your experience with the rest of us.
Dinkie Diesel
01-17-2010, 08:20 PM
What method will you use to cut that honeycomb material? WaterJet?
Blues Traveler
01-17-2010, 09:20 PM
I've noticed that you still have the inner wooden core. Will that stay as part of your construction? And, what about the front part where the body of the frame mounts to the box. Is the chassis built in such a manner where it supports itself and the box will just sit on the chassis? When you are finished with the box, will it be ridgid or will other frame work be added to give it ridgity? I sure hope you have a lot of time to work on this as I am finding myself going back repeatedly to see if there are any updates on the builds progress. Thanks for sharing your experience with the rest of us.
The wooden box is just a form. It gives me me a pattern for the outside pannels. It will go away once I have all the pannels are in place and im satisfied with the fit. I was told by someone in Texsas who sells Unigo's that the box is part of the structure. So that is what I plan to do, attach the box in many places along the front and bottom making it all one piece. Once the outside is done it will go back on the frame without the wood and an inner frame will be built up along with a few doublers and stringers for strength. Just like an airplane. Some of the framework will also be placed and shape to hold certain pieces of camping gear in the same place each time. My settup for camping is pretty much set. So im going to try and make my gear, everything in its own spot fit in the same place each time.
Im in no hurry to get it done. My goal is to tow it to the "BIG" BMW national up in Redmond Oregon this comming July. In April if things workout i'll do a shake down run to the WARP Ralley at the Kern River. Im going to try and get a little done each evening. Maybe just a part or two till its ready to roll.
Blues Traveler
01-17-2010, 09:30 PM
What method will you use to cut that honeycomb material? WaterJet?
To cut the honeycomb I have what is called a skin saw. If you look in my last posted picture you can see a small air powered saw sitting on the table under the trailer. Using a long stiff straight edge as a guide I will make 2 cuts. One one each side then with a knife cut the honeycomb in between and remove the excess piece. The Honeycomb is made from some really thin material. Gets its strength from standing on edge between the outside pannels. The honycomb will then be trimmed back inside each edge about .700 and then filled with something called hysol. This will harden making the edge all the way around very strong. In the end an aluminum cap will cover all the edges.
Blues Traveler
01-17-2010, 09:39 PM
After a nice ride this morning and breakfast with friends up on the hill at Hells Kitchen I headed home for an afternoon with the Unigo.
Finally got the front pannel cut and fitted.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10011.jpg
Took the better part of the afternoon. It fits nice and hopefully tomorrow evening i'll cut, drill, and cleco the angles you see clamped in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10014.jpg
Blues Traveler
01-18-2010, 11:29 PM
Spent a couple hours on the trailer this evening.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10020.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10022.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10027.jpg
Couple of parts a day.
Next, the bottom side.
denny
01-18-2010, 11:34 PM
What does the tool look like that you use to set those rivets?
bigTom
01-19-2010, 06:28 AM
Those are called a "Cleco", a layout tool. Takes a special pliers, cleverly called a Cleco Pliers. I can see the butt end of them hanging out of the orange tub in the above two pictures. They haven't changed much since I used them 35 years ago:)
skypilot
01-19-2010, 09:47 AM
Nice find. I always wanted a Unigo but never got there.
I have been building my own since I had other requirements. Need to carry fuel along the axle line to keep the tongue weight down
denny
01-19-2010, 06:05 PM
OOps, I was not clear with my question.
I mean when you start setting the final rivets, what kind of tool does that job?
I know an auto restorer who uses cleco's, so I've seen those used in the preliminary fitting of replacement body panels.
Blues Traveler
01-19-2010, 06:55 PM
Denny, at some point I will show actual pictures of me shooting a few rivets. Maybe even a short movie of it all going down.
Here's a picture I took out of the Aircraft Spruce online site. It basicly showns what I will be using in the way of tools. A 3X gun, rivet sets and bucking bars.
2433
The gun looks a lot like an air hammer used by body shops. But it is much more controlable. You can actually creep up on the rivet setting it and then hit it hard to clench it down. An air hammer has more of an on/off switch and will destroy everything in the blink of an eye.:eek:
TWT Rider
01-19-2010, 09:04 PM
Hey that's taking shape quite well P^P^
Blues Traveler
01-19-2010, 10:41 PM
I was a little lazy tonight, long day at work. Got the trailer flip over and thought about what needs to be done.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10028.jpg
Figure i'll skin the bottom and make another pannel for the floor inside. That will give me a 3/4" space between the pannels for some foam insulation. That will help deal with road heat during the summer months.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10030.jpg
Trekker
01-19-2010, 10:44 PM
Denny, at some point I will show actual pictures of me shooting a few rivets. Maybe even a short movie of it all going down.
Keith, THAT would be very cool to see. I have worked in various metal shops on & off all my life and appreciate metal working skills wherever I see it.
skypilot
01-20-2010, 11:21 AM
No no no! I know what Clecos are. I have a drawer full of them in my tool box, not that I use them much anymore. I am an A&P from back in th... wait, I'm off topic again. The trailer looks like a Uni-Go trailer without the body.
http://www.uni-go-trailers.com/
Those are called a "Cleco", a layout tool. Takes a special pliers, cleverly called a Cleco Pliers. I can see the butt end of them hanging out of the orange tub in the above two pictures. They haven't changed much since I used them 35 years ago:)
Blues Traveler
01-21-2010, 10:21 PM
Yep, its a 2001 Uni-go from when they were made in New Zealand. When they were bought up by someone in Arizona I tried to buy just the running gear. I was told they didn't do that. So I was somewhat jazzed :wow1: when this popped up in the classifieds on another site.
Last night I made a lot of aluminum chips. With the trailer upside down I was able to trim everything even with the jig/form. I have a nice die grinder with a rotory file thats known as BIG DADDY at work. It takes care of buisness really quick.
Tonight I made up a couple more pannels. If you look through the rim at the other pannel you can see one of the 2 flanges I added for an attachment point later on.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10034.jpg
George
01-22-2010, 12:07 PM
That's looking really great, Keith.
I have the cup holder moved from the old black bike to the new red bike, here's a pic of it in place. Folks, Keith made this some time ago for his ST1100 and passed it on to 'cause he knows I'll always have one. :D
2441
bigTom
01-22-2010, 12:28 PM
And you can believe that I noted the fact. I've been watching that cup holder for years....
Blues Traveler
01-23-2010, 08:33 PM
Got a couple more pannels on the bottom cut and in place this afternoon.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10037.jpg
Bent up a couple short angles to tie in the bottom pannels. Trimmed to fit, drilled and clecoed in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10038.jpg
Next is to finish making the rest of the angles up and get them in place. Then I believe it will be time for the wooden form to go away.
Almost time to shoot a few rivets.
Mellow
01-23-2010, 08:37 PM
Too cool... so, are the rivets enough to make it waterproof or do you line the overlapping panels with something?
Blues Traveler
01-23-2010, 09:19 PM
Too cool... so, are the rivets enough to make it waterproof or do you line the overlapping panels with something?
Yep, everything will be shot up wet. I going to use something called PRC. Same stuff we use on the airplanes I do repairs on. Its a 2 part kit mixed up at 10-1. A faying surface of seal will be applied between all the parts and than riveted together. Not only will this make it water tight it will also make every seam stronger.
DILLIGAF61
01-23-2010, 09:21 PM
I'm sure you already know this but you do want to keep the tongue weight to no more than 25 lbs if you can... otherwise, it could cause the front end of your bike to get real light..
if i ran my tongue that light my trailer would by fishtailing all over the road mine is anywhere between 40-55 lbs
Blues Traveler
01-24-2010, 10:12 PM
After breakfast and a little M/C talk up onthe hill this morning I headed home for an afternoon with the trailer.
Got most of the angles made up and clecoed in place. Only 3 more small ones left to do.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10045.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10044.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-13-10047.jpg
Should have those last 3 made and in place tomorrow evening.
Ironheadziggy76
01-24-2010, 11:00 PM
:Popcorn
bigTom
01-25-2010, 05:50 AM
Beauty. Just beauty, Keith.
hardwire
01-25-2010, 06:49 PM
Wow, getting close! Looking great!:)
Blues Traveler
01-25-2010, 11:29 PM
Sorry, no pictures tonight. They would have looked just like last nights pictures. The last 3 parts for the outside are small and in place. Tomorrow I will get it turned upright back on its wheel. Or if I can figure out how to support it on end. Before I disasemble and remove the box I have to make the bottom plate. This plate will be part of the mounting system. So getting it made up and located will insure it all goes back in the same place once shot up.
Ironheadziggy76
01-26-2010, 10:42 PM
We'll forgive you just this once! :p What I'm really looking forward to seeing you build is the top and how you hinge it. P^
Blues Traveler
01-26-2010, 11:01 PM
We'll forgive you just this once! :p What I'm really looking forward to seeing you build is the top and how you hinge it. P^
As Joe pointed out I should hinge it in the front. Hinge will be aircraft aluminum piano hinge. I need to go up above in the garage and get that piece of honeycomb laminant downthat i've been sitting on for 22 years. When I do i'll take a picture and post it. Hope its what I remember in size. Pretty sure its 36" X 36", maybe a little bigger.
Tonight after pulling each side apart to trim a bottom pannel flange I rolled it over on its side. This should give me enough access to make the center piece for the inside floor.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-26-10004.jpg
Blues Traveler
01-28-2010, 12:06 AM
Actually shot up a few rivets tonight, 8 to be exsact. After getting the neigbor to help me stand it on end I took apart and removed the same bottom pannels that I removed last night to trim and attached a couple more angles. These angles allow me to attach an inner pannel/floor.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-27-10003.jpg
Tomorrow the wood comes out.
bigmak96
01-28-2010, 07:14 PM
Thanks for the lessons here Keith. I am glad Joe tipped us all off to your project. Looks great P^
Blues Traveler
01-28-2010, 11:56 PM
Removed all the parts this evening and removed the wooden box. Finished cleaning up all the edges and deburing all the holes.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-28-10004.jpg
This time when putting it back together I clecoed everything from the inside.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-28-10010.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-28-10016.jpg
I was amazed when I sat it back on the trailer and looked inside. So much room. Internal frame, bulkhead, and wheel well will not take up much room.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-28-10023.jpg
Even with the weight of the cleco's it very light. Here's a picture of the lid. Got lucky on the length. its just 7/8" to short. Yet the hinge mount will make it a perfect fit. The width will be cut down and capped. Have'nt seen this pannel in probably 10-15 years, beautiful piece of material.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-28-10027.jpg
Ironheadziggy76
01-29-2010, 03:46 AM
Looking good! P^ Glad I checked in before leaving out to go to work, you got a lot done!
Whosoever
01-29-2010, 06:57 PM
I've noticed that a number of your postings are after 1 AM in the morning...you are putting some really serious time in on this project. Or, is the time reflected Central Standard time....either way...you've got a few hours invested in this project. If you have a wife...you've got a really understanding and supportive one..or perhaps you're in the "dog house". If it is the latter tell her for us....the kids in the "peanut gallery" we really appreciate your dedication.
bigTom
01-30-2010, 06:36 AM
Keith is a left coaster, his posts are more like 10:00 pm local. He's an hour later than me for another few weeks.
skypilot
01-30-2010, 06:03 PM
I am an A&P with many years of experince on heavies and some light aviation time. I have 33 years of riding experience and loads of custom bike building time, all of which ivolves experimental bikes, not choppers or cuisers. I worked for years in P&WA's Experimental engine developement division and I have to say, I am impressed. I love what you are doing with the body. Even more so because I like the uni-go design so much. When you are done you should polish the hell out of this thing and show off all the work you have done. I know aircraft mechanics who will line up to shake you hand when they see this
Christopher D. Eckert
Blues Traveler
01-31-2010, 09:40 AM
Ok, it does'nt look like much but these 3 parts took me the afternoon to make and get in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-30-10011.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-30-10010.jpg
The fasteners at temperary. The material inside is .125 6061 T-6, 2 layers. These parts are what holds the front of the box to the frame. Outside I added a doubler, .050 6061 T-6, same as the box itself.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-30-10018.jpg
Also got the bottom center (also a mounting point) cut to size ( .063 6061 T-6) and located.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-30-10007.jpg
Blues Traveler
01-31-2010, 09:59 AM
Thanks Skypilot,
Im no A&P but this is what I do everyday for work. I work for a small FAA repair station here in SoCal. I fabricate parts and perform repairs, rework, restorations, and life extensions on DeHavilland Twin Otters. Learned what I do by building commercial aircraft and rockets at McDonnel Douglas for 15 years.
I've learned to love working with aluminum. A bend here, and a bend there, and a few rivets can make for a very strong stout part that can last for years.:D
Dinkie Diesel
01-31-2010, 12:08 PM
Keith, I'm impressed! And a little jealous. I check on this thread everytime I see a new post. Always have enjoyed metal working. Never had the privilege of riveting but it sure is cool! Flush rivets, no less! I have a few questions. Where you bend the angle material on the outside corners, will you have to TIG that splice? Do you countersink to use the flush rivets? Are the rivets also aluminum? Will you do anything to finish the final product like paint or clearcoat? Seam sealer?
Thanks
Jeff
Blues Traveler
01-31-2010, 03:41 PM
Keith, I'm impressed! And a little jealous. I check on this thread everytime I see a new post. Always have enjoyed metal working. Never had the privilege of riveting but it sure is cool! Flush rivets, no less! I have a few questions. Where you bend the angle material on the outside corners, will you have to TIG that splice? Do you countersink to use the flush rivets? Are the rivets also aluminum? Will you do anything to finish the final product like paint or clearcoat? Seam sealer?
Thanks
Jeff
Jeff,
I reallty don't need to have anything welded. Rivets and applying seal between the parts will make for a very strong part.
To use flush rivets you need to counter sink each hole. To do this im using something called a micro set. Has a piloted cutter and can be adjusted to within a .001 of an inch. I'll post pictures when that happens.
There are many types and materials that rivets come in. The rivets im using are aluminum.
As for a finish? Not sure yet. I would love to just leave it bare but its already showing a lot of light surface scratching. Powdercoat is a possiblity. A black textured powdercoat to match my Jesse's would look good. And then their's Rino plastic bed linner. Im planning on having the inside shot and thought about doing the outside as well.
Blues Traveler
01-31-2010, 09:12 PM
After my manditory Sunday morning ride and breakfast with friends I once again I headed home to spend some time on the trailer.
I got the bulkhead in front of the wheel and swingarm started this afternoon. Added a couple of short clips on each side with cleco's.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-31-10003.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject1-31-10005.jpg
Its a start, but before I drill any holes I need to make sure its what I want. Spent more time just looking and studying what needs to be done next. Im at the point where the next few holes will set the shape of the box. I want to make sure it square for locating the lid/cover later on.
Timmer
01-31-2010, 10:27 PM
How are you setting the tire clearance for suspension travel? It looks a bit tight.
Blues Traveler
01-31-2010, 11:05 PM
How are you setting the tire clearance for suspension travel? It looks a bit tight.
Yea it's a bit tight, but there isn't much travel to begin with. The forword end of the swingarm actually moves down. Top of the wheel well will be higher than the top of the bulkhead, not much but high enough for wheel travel clearance.
Blues Traveler
02-02-2010, 09:26 PM
Last night I was ready to shoot a few rivets. Mixed up a little PRC, spread it between parts, put most of the cleco's back in place, got out my rivets, rivet gun, and suddenly realized I didn't have the right length rivets.:( Everything I had was too short. Put Cleco's in all the holes to draw it up tight and called it a night.
Well this afternoon I had what I needed and Shot in the front mount.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-2-10002.jpg
inside you can see the length of the rivets on the bottom row as I prepard to shoot them up. Notice the deep debur. This will allow for me to shave them all flush later on. Or I can just leave them the way they are, bucktails.:)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-2-10004.jpg
At this point I can probably shoot most of the box up. Question, should I use flush or button heads on the rest of the trailer.:confused: All these little gold button heads look nice. Gives everything that aircraft assembly look. If for some reason I deside to leave the trailer bare aluminum (covered with event stickers eventually of course) The button heads I feel will look much better than the flush.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-2-10006.jpg
bigTom
02-03-2010, 03:01 AM
Having seen and installed hundreds of thousands of the 'normal' rivets, I think the flush mount looks exotic:) 'Course your stuff looks exotic, anyway.
Riviting the way I did was a 2 man job. One to buck and one to hit. Is a portion of the reason for my hearing prowess:) Noise suppression was not much in the very early 70's....
Mellow
02-03-2010, 06:15 AM
I could go either way on the rivets... but I'm sorta liking he button head ones.. even if it's all powder coated... kinda gives it some dimension and texture if that makes any sense.
BCRider
02-03-2010, 08:47 AM
I'm split on it, I love the look of the button heads but I've got to think it would be a real pain to clean.
Pete
Ironheadziggy76
02-03-2010, 12:01 PM
Button heads for sure! P^
This is going to be amazing when finished! :)
TripleThreat
02-03-2010, 04:54 PM
Button Heads if you powder coat it and Flush if you polish it... Of course this is just MHO...
Great work. As a former Industrial Technology teacher, turned high school principal, I really appreciate your craftsmanship... Bravo!
Trailace
02-03-2010, 07:11 PM
I say button head ones if it's all powder coated and Flush if you don't. It would be hard to polish.
Looks great either way.
Blues Traveler
02-03-2010, 10:52 PM
Button heads it is. Posted the same question on another site. The responce wasn't big, button heads were the favorite. So between there and Motocampers here button heads won. I too was leaning towards the buttons. So........tonight I started shooting things up.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-3-10003.jpg
Got all 4 courners done.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-3-10004.jpg
They all came out really nice P^. Had to remove only one. The bar slipped and I cut one of the bucktails.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-3-10008.jpg
Blues Traveler
02-04-2010, 10:53 PM
Got more shot up tonight. Enough to where I was comfortable taking it off the chassis and flip it over.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-4-10003.jpg
Wanted it upside down and flat on the table while I shoot the bottom up.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-4-10007.jpg
This will help keep it square and the top flat.
bigTom
02-05-2010, 05:31 AM
That's just beautiful. Really beautiful.
ImRubicon
02-05-2010, 06:24 AM
Alittle transformer looking for me but real nice looking
What color will it end up being ?
Mellow
02-05-2010, 12:27 PM
I don't want to be a stick in the mud.... but, did you ever do any speed runs with the wooden mock-up?
The uni-go is sometimes prone to some fish-tailing in dirty air.... and 'looks' aerodynamic...
I'd sure hate to see all this effort only to find out it's not a good shape... I personally doubt you'll have any issues but, just curious...
denny
02-05-2010, 06:09 PM
I'll bet he could fabricate a really cool wing if that becomes necessary.
Blues Traveler
02-06-2010, 12:20 AM
I don't want to be a stick in the mud.... but, did you ever do any speed runs with the wooden mock-up?
The uni-go is sometimes prone to some fish-tailing in dirty air.... and 'looks' aerodynamic...
I'd sure hate to see all this effort only to find out it's not a good shape... I personally doubt you'll have any issues but, just curious...
Nope, have'nt got a hitch yet, that makes it kind of hard to do. The wooden box also weighs so much more than the one made from aluminum. Once the box is structurally done i'll get the hitch made up. Yea,its sort of a gamble as if its gong to be stable. Its why I kept it the same size as the Uni-go egg shape. Will be interesting once done to see how it reacts behind my GSA. Its to my understanding that a Uni-go sits in the slipstream of the bike. My bike with all the box's should have a very interesting slipstream. Maybe just a big pocket of air, maybe not. Will just have to wait and see.
Mellow
02-06-2010, 05:21 AM
It's also quite possible your design works better than the egg shape...
Blues Traveler
02-06-2010, 08:39 AM
Alittle transformer looking for me but real nice looking
What color will it end up being ?
If it gets paint (powdercoat) it will be black with the same texture as my Jesse Luggage. I feel it should all match. The inside will be Rino linned in blue. The hitch arm blue (also powdercoat) to match my the bike.
SidecarMike
02-06-2010, 09:12 AM
If it gets paint (powdercoat) it will be black with the same texture as my Jesse Luggage. I feel it should all match. The inside will be Rino linned in blue. The hitch arm blue (also powdercoat) to match my the bike.
I'm not sure what shade of blue you have in mind. I bought an old Breeze trailer once that was painted white inside. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to find things in the dark, compared to the black Bushtec it replaced.
Blues Traveler
02-06-2010, 07:33 PM
Was suppose to be camping this weekend:(. Rain, and lots of it. In fact its been raining all day non stop. If you look in the background of today's picture you can see that its still raining.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-6-10001.jpg
This was the part I was sort of dreading, the upper frame and lip. The lip is the same dimension as found on my Jesse's. Bike was packed and ready to go this morning but instead I loaded some sheetmetal in the car and headed for work. Needed the big shear and brake to make the longer parts.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-6-10002.jpg
Still need to add another row of rivets before dropping the parts to prep for final install.
While at work this morning I aslo had the time to make the stiffeners for the sides front and back, those are next.
Gave up this afternoon when the blade on the bandsaw gave up and broke.
Blues Traveler
02-07-2010, 09:16 PM
Got the perimeter around the top shot up this agternoon.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-7-10006.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-7-10005.jpg
For more strength where the hindge locates I added an extra double. Flushed all the rivets so the hindge can sit on top of this doubler. Mounting holes for the hindge will be drilled between these flush rivets.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-7-10009.jpg
Next are these stiffeners I made yesterday morning. They will be located on the inside, front to rear, about halfway down the side wall on all 4 sides. These will really stiffen up the side walls.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-7-10010.jpg
Zippo
02-07-2010, 09:46 PM
That truly is beautiful work. Keep the updates coming, please! I can't wait to hear about your maiden flight with your new trailer.
Dinkie Diesel
02-08-2010, 09:02 AM
Sure looks good! If you're like me, you'll have this huge sense of accomlishment when it's finished. If you had to put a price tag on it what would it be? $9,000. I think that's what I would charge.
Mellow
02-08-2010, 03:03 PM
Sure looks good! If you're like me, you'll have this huge sense of accomlishment when it's finished. If you had to put a price tag on it what would it be? $9,000. I think that's what I would charge.
Let's put it this way....
IF.. he had all the parts already cut to shape and he just had to assemble, that might actually be less labor intensive than the fiberglass option from uni-go (I have no idea because I don't know anything about fiberglass work or the magic Keith uses)... Obviously, if he had the idea of making these for people, he couldn't charge a price that was reflected all the start-up work on each trailer when that was only done once... well, you could but it would be so expensive it would not be an option.
However, once it's complete.. you could gear up by making 5 times the material using the 1st trailer as a base just to gauge interest.. I bet there are a ton of GS guys out there that would drool over one of these.
Then, there's the target audience to consider... these are pretty much made for the GS, or dual sport bike, from a cosmetic point of view.. However, the unigo frame is not made to be taken off road so the next version would need to consider a heavy duty frame so someone on a GS could ride down a minor dirt/gravel farm road with little worry about the frame breaking. There's no way the unigo would handle that stuff for long..
I hope to see the Uni-Tank some day in person.
Uni-Tank
Uni-nator
Uni-Turret...
motomac
02-08-2010, 07:51 PM
Let's put it this way....
IF.. he had all the parts already cut to shape and he just had to assemble, that might actually be less labor intensive than the fiberglass option from uni-go (I have no idea because I don't know anything about fiberglass work or the magic Keith uses)... Obviously, if he had the idea of making these for people, he couldn't charge a price that was reflected all the start-up work on each trailer when that was only done once... well, you could but it would be so expensive it would not be an option.
However, once it's complete.. you could gear up by making 5 times the material using the 1st trailer as a base just to gauge interest.. I bet there are a ton of GS guys out there that would drool over one of these.
Then, there's the target audience to consider... these are pretty much made for the GS, or dual sport bike, from a cosmetic point of view.. However, the unigo frame is not made to be taken off road so the next version would need to consider a heavy duty frame so someone on a GS could ride down a minor dirt/gravel farm road with little worry about the frame breaking. There's no way the unigo would handle that stuff for long..
I hope to see the Uni-Tank some day in person.
Uni-Tank
Uni-nator
Uni-Turret...Uhhh, there is at least one Gold Winger drooling all over this project!!!
Mellow
02-08-2010, 09:04 PM
Uhhh, there is at least one Gold Winger drooling all over this project!!!
Oh... I'm sure many are drooling over this.. including me..
Blues Traveler
02-08-2010, 11:16 PM
Thanks everyone.
Tonight addition doesn't look like all the much but was indeed time consuming. There will be many little details like this from now until its finished.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/2-8-10001.jpg
These little 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" brackets/doublers will tie in all the corners holding everything in place and keep them all line up. 6 holes, all flush, with solid rivets.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/2-8-10005.jpg
After dilling and counter sinking it all comes apart,debured, sealant applied and then riveted. For this application i'll use my hand squeeze, simple and fast.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/2-8-10006.jpg
Nice and solid and flush for a nice seal with the lid/top later on.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/2-8-10007.jpg
Ironheadziggy76
02-09-2010, 09:35 PM
Looking great Keith, love the detail work! To me it's these small things that make a great project like yours! P^
Blues Traveler
02-10-2010, 10:50 PM
Its been slow going since Sunday afternoon. Blade on my bandsaw broke :(. Took it into work yesterday and tried to repair it using the little welder on the side of the big bandsaw. Thought I had it fixed. Once home I put it back in place and even made a couple of short cuts. Seemed fine only having if break once again on a 3rd cut.
This evening using the die grinder I shaped and trimmed and notched the end of the stringers. Would have been much easier had I had the saw.
This weekend, A NEW BLADE!!!
bigTom
02-11-2010, 05:35 AM
The dreaded 'equipment failure'. That is about as frustrating as it gets! Really looking good, Keith...
Mellow
02-11-2010, 07:02 AM
This is almost like an episode of American Chopper....... only, NOT.. LOL
Blues Traveler
02-13-2010, 11:24 PM
It took a little sweet talking :please1: but I was able to talk the boss into letting me make up a nice bandsaw blade this afternoon.
Yep, BACK IN BUSINESS P^
Once home I removed the box so I could finish cutting out and shaping the phenolic blocks im using for spacers on the bottom mounts. Drilled a few more holes in the frame and tapped them to a 10-32. Countersunk the holes in the block and intalled them with stainless hardware.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-13-10002.jpg
Put the box back in place. Made sure it was clamed down really good in the rear and flipped it upside down. Drilled the mounting holes in the box and then flipped it back on its wheel.
Removed the box once again (im getting really good at this:D) debured the holes and reinstalled the box with temp. hardware.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-13-10009.jpg
Even though I know the rest of the internal frame will get rid of all the flex I was still concerned with some flex behind the wheel. After studying it for awhile I decided it needed a rear mount on each side in the rear, but how? :think1:. Looked through the many box's of hardware saved up over the years I found these nice aluminum spacers. They just happen to be a perfect snug fit between the rear frame and the box. Clamping them in place makes everything rock solid. Hardware will be even better.
So.....a couple more holes drilled and tapped will cure what I thought might be a problem later on. These two extra mount will also change what I had planned for the wheel cover giving me more packable room on each side of the wheel.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-13-10008.jpg
Blues Traveler
02-16-2010, 10:26 PM
Amazing how many times i've taken the box on and off to locate and trim parts to fit.
Because of the rear mounts I came up with the bulkhead in front of the wheel can be much shorter. This will give me a little, not much, but more room down low for longer items.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-16-10003.jpg
There's actually another part under everything (many bends) that will tie the inner fender, bottom pannel, and the bulkhead. It's there and riveted in place. You just can't see it very well.
Was having problems positioning myself while trying to shoot the rivets on this part. Was ready to give up for the evening when the wife arrived home pulling up in the driveway. As she passed through the garage I asked , how'd you like to buck a few rivets? I could tell she really didn't want to but I talked he into at least trying. First one really made her jump :eek: as I pulled the trigger. DAMN!! she said, the bar jumped all over the place. No damage, lets try again. Next couple of rivets she had it down. 24 rivets later we were done and I now have a new assistant in need be.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject2-16-10002.jpg
The inner fender/bulkhead will consist of at least 10 parts, maybe more. Will post picture as it progresses over the next couple evenings.
Mellow
02-17-2010, 07:01 AM
Just another thing to consider Keith... I know Mac's unigo had an issue where the axle bolts were contacting the body 'sometimes' and it was putting notches into the fiberglass... they fixed it with smaller tires or wheel I think... I don't know if that was a production change and if so when it went into place...
Anyway, all that to say, there 'may' be some frame flex that causes the wheel/swingarm to travel just a bit past what it appears is the max extension... If that is truly the case, and I don't know, just guessing... those extra bolts spacers may be under more stress so might want to reinforce that area and/or provide for just a bit more extension to deal with any flex... maybe some added cross members on the bottom of the frame would also serve the same purpose of removing flex.
Not sure any of it matters as other than Macs trailer I haven't seen this happen and I've only see 3 or 4 unigos in person so my view is limited.
Mellow
02-17-2010, 07:37 AM
Just another thing to consider Keith... I know Mac's unigo had an issue where the axle bolts were contacting the body 'sometimes' and it was putting notches into the fiberglass... they fixed it with smaller tires or wheel I think... I don't know if that was a production change and if so when it went into place...
Anyway, all that to say, there 'may' be some frame flex that causes the wheel/swingarm to travel just a bit past what it appears is the max extension... If that is truly the case, and I don't know, just guessing... those extra bolts spacers may be under more stress so might want to reinforce that area and/or provide for just a bit more extension to deal with any flex... maybe some added cross members on the bottom of the frame would also serve the same purpose of removing flex.
Not sure any of it matters as other than Macs trailer I haven't seen this happen and I've only see 3 or 4 unigos in person so my view is limited.
Okay... duh... never mind... I think you already addressed the flex... hey, it's tough being an armchair fabricator.. but someone has to do it.
Blues Traveler
02-17-2010, 07:57 AM
Yea Joe, I was pretty happy after figuring out and adding those extra mounting points in the rear. It got rock solid just by clamping them in place. Now that i've added the 1/4" bolts its even better. As the wheel well comes together the material build up and along with another doubler at that mount it will get even better. All the stiffeners for the box are made and yet to be located and drilled in place. These will also cure any other stress/flex issues.
Mellow
02-17-2010, 08:05 AM
Yea Joe, I was pretty happy after figuring out and adding those extra mounting points in the rear. It got rock solid just by clamping them in place. Now that i've added the 1/4" bolts its even better. As the wheel well comes together the material build up and along with another doubler at that mount it will get even better. All the stiffeners for the box are made and yet to be located and drilled in place. These will also cure any other stress/flex issues.
I should just trust your abilities... if I did it, well, it would look..... what's the word? Funky... it would look like abstract art.. LOL
Keep up the good work, this has been a great project to watch. P^
Blues Traveler
02-17-2010, 11:06 PM
Couple of parts a night. Here I got the first two angles made and mounted to the bulkhead.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-17-10005.jpg
While the bulkhead was out I took a picture of one of last nights parts.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-17-10002.jpg
Put a 24" long piece of material in the mustang to take into work tomorrow. The brake at work will be much better for making the bends for the top of the bulkhead.
canyonman
02-18-2010, 12:14 AM
I have been following this thread religiously since I signed up here a few weeks back.
You sir are a true craftsman I consider myself pretty handy and not bad at making something out of nothing but this, this is way above anything I could hope to achieve.
I would really like to meet you one day but I'm afraid I would have so many questions for you you would file a restraining order.
So kidding aside any chance you might be able to photo document the actual process of setting one of those rivets? I have never seen it done before and it looks like a skill I need to add to my bag-o-tricks, I don’t even know what the tools look like.
I hope I’m not jacking this too badly as that is certainly not my intent I just gotta bunch of questions. Sorry guys. I'll shut up now. As you were.
Blues Traveler
02-18-2010, 11:36 PM
Canyonman, I'll see if I can't record a few rivets being shot up this weekend. Posting it might be another thing but i'll see what I can do.
This evenings part,
This morning before work I went in and bent up the top rail for the bulkdhead. Look just below the bulkhead in this picture and you can see an end piece that was trimmed off showing a cross section.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-18-10001.jpg
Here's everything cleco'ed back in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-18-10002.jpg
bigTom
02-19-2010, 05:53 AM
Boy, I can't wait to see this thing. It's just looking better and better every day!
Mellow
02-19-2010, 07:03 AM
I'm getting antsy... If I lived anywhere near Keith I'd probably be in his driveway urging him on to finish already... Keith must have loads of patience...
Sure looks close ... P^
Timmer
02-19-2010, 02:20 PM
This is one of the coolest projects I've seen in a long time. P^P^
Blues Traveler
02-21-2010, 09:41 AM
Yesterday me and a friend went down to the metal supply and I got the material for bikes hitch. Just a big 10 lb. plate of 3/4" 6061-T6, i'll post pictures as it takes shape.
Here's the recent progress on the box. Got most of the pieces cut and located for the inner wheel well. Still have a few more to make up and get in place. Ran into a snag as I forgot to bring home my 90° drill motor. Thought the 45° motor would do the job, but nope.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-20-10005.jpg
I like like to drill everything in place so there's no chance of it not fitting latter on. 18 holes on each side of the wheel well seem to be holding me up. I've marked everything up. Maybe i'll try something different this afternoon.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-20-10006.jpg
Whosoever
02-21-2010, 08:06 PM
the next time I get on a plane and take a casual look at the wing and how it is put together I am quite sure my thoughts will go back to this thread and how you have demonstated what goes into 1st rate construction....just amazing...and you've done this in your garage! Thanks for sharing this!
Timmer
02-21-2010, 09:35 PM
+1 on this thought.
the next time I get on a plane and take a casual look at the wing and how it is put together I am quite sure my thoughts will go back to this thread and how you have demonstated what goes into 1st rate construction....just amazing...and you've done this in your garage! Thanks for sharing this!
Blues Traveler
02-21-2010, 10:24 PM
After making up and locating a few more parts today I pulled out what I had, debured and assembled them in the vise.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-21-10001.jpg
Its now back in the trailer box all cleco'ed in place. Still need to make a couple more parts befor the final install.
I did tape a short (1:26 second) film of shotting about 6 rivets. Came out fine when I veiw it onmy camera, sound and everything. Tried to upload it to Photobucket so I could post. There must be a better way. After a good 20 minutes it had only uploaded 33% of it, :confused: I gave up. Later I t tried again on my Webshots and had the same results, :confused: I gave up.
Sorry, I tried.
On a lighter note I did just out of curiosity load the new box with my camping gear. YES!!! it all fits with plenty of room to spare. Sleeping bag, tent, cooking gear, ect. Everything I've been bringing along on my trips. Ice chest and cloths I set aside. As mentioned before those will stay on the bike.
Ironheadziggy76
02-21-2010, 11:04 PM
It's looking amazing Keith! P^
This is a little off topic but I have to ask about the small bikes and cars on the shelves. Are those just minis you have collected, or are they models that you have put together?
Mellow
02-22-2010, 05:49 AM
Cool...
Keith, youtube is a better and easier place to put videos.
Blues Traveler
02-22-2010, 07:11 AM
It's looking amazing Keith! P^
This is a little off topic but I have to ask about the small bikes and cars on the shelves. Are those just minis you have collected, or are they models that you have put together?
Ziggy, those are all diecast collectables i've collected over the years, many years. The cars are 1/18th scale as are the smaller motorcycles. The larger bikes are 1/10th scale. I still watch for motorcycles from time to time hoping to find something I don't already have. Guess you could call it somewhat of an adiction.:D
Ironheadziggy76
02-22-2010, 02:25 PM
Ziggy, those are all diecast collectables i've collected over the years, many years. The cars are 1/18th scale as are the smaller motorcycles. The larger bikes are 1/10th scale. I still watch for motorcycles from time to time hoping to find something I don't already have. Guess you could call it somewhat of an adiction.:D
I completely understand that addiction! In my lower garage I have half a wall of shelves with nothing but boxes of car, truck, ATV, and motorcycle magazines. A lot of them were the stuff of my motorcycle dreams before I was old enough to ride on the street legally. I often dig some of the old issues of Cycle out just to reread "The Duct Tapes" from Ed Hertfelter. I loved his stuff! P^
Dinkie Diesel
02-22-2010, 05:10 PM
Keith must be a pretty well rounded person. I see some good stuff there in the back ground: Pink Floyd Button, Aluminum Mill file (my dad has one of those. Man, they cut fast!) A good tire pressure gauge below the screwdrivers, jewelers screwdriver set. The thing I like best is the Caution placard. That would make a great saying for a T-shirt or a pair of underwear. :D
Whosoever
02-22-2010, 06:34 PM
Keith must be a pretty well rounded person. I see some good stuff there in the back ground: Pink Floyd Button, Aluminum Mill file (my dad has one of those. Man, they cut fast!) A good tire pressure gauge below the screwdrivers, jewelers screwdriver set. The thing I like best is the Caution placard. That would make a great saying for a T-shirt or a pair of underwear. :D
Well inspite of his obvious gifts of craftsmanship and all that...his garage is a problem...it's a good thing my wife doesn't read this forum as often as I have been doing over the past several weeks.....because...if she saw his garage and compared it with ours....there would be some pretty significant sparks flying around here.....Keith needs to cut the rest of some "slack" or there is likely to be trouble...maybe he could put up some sheets like they do at bad wrecks to shield his well kept garage and every tool in it's place...this order less chaos is getting out of hand! :well
Blues Traveler
02-22-2010, 07:00 PM
I completely understand that addiction! In my lower garage I have half a wall of shelves with nothing but boxes of car, truck, ATV, and motorcycle magazines. A lot of them were the stuff of my motorcycle dreams before I was old enough to ride on the street legally. I often dig some of the old issues of Cycle out just to reread "The Duct Tapes" from Ed Hertfelter. I loved his stuff!
Originally Posted by Dinkie Diesel
Keith must be a pretty well rounded person. I see some good stuff there in the back ground: Pink Floyd Button, Aluminum Mill file (my dad has one of those. Man, they cut fast!) A good tire pressure gauge below the screwdrivers, jewelers screwdriver set. The thing I like best is the Caution placard. That would make a great saying for a T-shirt or a pair of underwear.
Originally Posted by Whosoever
Well inspite of his obvious gifts of craftsmanship and all that...his garage is a problem...it's a good thing my wife doesn't read this forum as often as I have been doing over the past several weeks.....because...if she saw his garage and compared it with ours....there would be some pretty significant sparks flying around here.....Keith needs to cut the rest of some "slack" or there is likely to be trouble...maybe he could put up some sheets like they do at bad wrecks to shield his well kept garage and every tool in it's place...this order less chaos is getting out of hand! P^
Ziggy, I too had about every magazine i'd ever bought. Took up a good part of the entire wall. Kept all the old ones and sold the rest on ebay. Most of those old additions of Cycle will bring $35 each.
Diesel, Had to go back and look for the Pink Floyd button you mentioned. What your seeing is an original "PULP FICTION" button i've had for years. As for Pink Floyd P^ Its one of the top 5 I listen to all the time.
Whosoever, My garage has been my room for over 20 years. It took awhile to convince the wife it was not intended for parking cars in. Motorcycles and shop equipment only. Its my room and is where I spend most of my time. As you can all see I throw nothing away. If and when its ready for the trash it has been stripped of all its good parts. :D I think most would be supprised if I could actually post all of what i've squirled away over the years. Even im not sure what I have anymore. I try to throw things out:eek: but it just not possible, it's all good stuff. :D
denny
02-22-2010, 08:04 PM
I have a lot of GOOD STUFF in my garage too.
I just can't seem to get it all organized like I want.
I suppose it would help if I had heat out there and I could spend more time there during the cold months.
Blues Traveler
02-22-2010, 10:58 PM
Not too keen about the wheel opening at the rear only being .050 thick so I decided to beef it up a bit. That way if it does take a hit somehow it has a better chance of staying flat and straight. The angles on the side are needed anyway to tie in that part of the inner wheel well.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-22-10002.jpg
Looked around the garage and found a nice piece of 7075-T6 extrusion. Its 1.5 X 1.5 X .100 of an inch thick, should do the trick. P^ Measured the width on the inside and cut it down and added some 45° angles on each side. Got it all drilled and cleco'ed in place and the cut it to match the arch of the cutout. Same with the side pieces.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-22-10003.jpg
Used some smaller #3 rivets because of the edge distance on the inside top of the extrusion. Its good to rule of thumb to stay out of the radius on any part.
Still got another piece for each side but called it quits for the night.
bigTom
02-23-2010, 06:04 AM
Quote by Blues Traveler
Its good to rule of thumb to stay out of the radius on any part.
Yeah? I'll try to remember that:)
Really looking good, Keith. BTW, I have a full set of Road and Track for the 50's. Short the January '55 issue, my brother's birthday. Had it framed and gave it to him for his 50th.
SidecarMike
02-23-2010, 07:34 AM
I have a lot of GOOD STUFF in my garage too.
I just can't seem to get it all organized like I want.
I suppose it would help if I had heat out there and I could spend more time there during the cold months.
I just added a ventless Natural Gas heater to mine. It's wonderful. I can go from below zero to about 50 degrees in 20 to 30 minutes. They also have propane ones. http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/003479.php
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/173950_lg.gif
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332735_200332735
Blues Traveler
02-23-2010, 11:41 PM
Made up and got the last two pieces in place finishing up the rear of the wheel opening.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-23-10.jpg
Came out nice, very strong and stiff now. After I take another look inside tomorrow just to make sure I didn't miss anything I believe it will be time to install the inner wheel well and bulkhead.
canyonman
02-24-2010, 08:37 AM
Gonna be a real bummer seeing this jewel coated in rhino liner.
Blues Traveler
02-24-2010, 06:25 PM
Gonna be a real bummer seeing this jewel coated in rhino liner.
Only on the inside, maybe a little on the front to protect it from the bikes rear wheel.
denny
02-26-2010, 12:08 AM
Here I sit all broken hearted came to ......
I read several forums almost every day and I must say I look forward to checking out Keith's progress more than any other active thread on ANY Forum.
I hope to have the good fortune to see this trailer in person when it is finished.
Trekker
02-26-2010, 08:34 AM
I too check the progress of this project often.
Keith- do you have an estimate of the comparative weight of your trailer to the original Uni-Go ??
David R
02-26-2010, 05:43 PM
I started following this thread late. Waiting for new posts is about as bad as waiting for payday...
Zippo
02-27-2010, 12:23 AM
I started following this thread late. Waiting for new posts is about as bad as waiting for payday...
I agree. Do you think if we double his pay he'll be more productive? :D
Blues Traveler
02-27-2010, 09:28 AM
I too check the progress of this project often.
Keith- do you have an estimate of the comparative weight of your trailer to the original Uni-Go ??
Trekker, this thing should weigh the same as a standard Uni-go give or take a pound or two. Uni-go's spec is 70 lbs. The chassis when shipped (shipping weight) was 52 lbs. including the box and the piece of plywood it was strapped too. I've only used a little more than a 1/3 of the 24 lbs of aluminum I bought and expect to use the rest of it before this project is done.
Sorry everyone for not posting anything over the last couple of day's. Any new pictures would have looked just like the old ones minus the cleco's. Have been busy riveting everything back in place. A couple of my niegbors have learned how to buck rivets now.:) Have had a couple of place's I couldn't get in with the rivet gun and went with Cherrymax's, a blind rivet. An expensive fancy pop rivet used in aircraft production and repair.
This morning Im meeting with Dwayne down the street. He's been machining my hitch mount plate and its ready for its first fit check. This will be a unique hitch. Tied in to the Jesse luggage mounts and will be rock solid if we planned it right.
I'll take picture and get them posted sometime today.
Blues Traveler
02-27-2010, 06:28 PM
Went and saw Dwayne this morning, He had the aluminum plate cut to size with 4 drill starts down each side where threaded mounting holes are intended to go.
Pulled off my rack, tail pipe extension, tail light, blinkers and inner fender, and put the plate in place to see how things fit and linned up.P^
That piece of 6061-T6 is 3/4 of an inch thick and weighs at least 6 pounds. Once machined it will look much nicer and be much much lighter.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10004.jpg
Went and got Dwayne so he could see how it fit and figure out the 2nd piece that will hold the reciever.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10010.jpg
Took a couple of pictures with the lid just to see how it all looks behind the bike. The lid still need to be cut down and made to fit. That part is coming up fast.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10012.jpg
denny
02-27-2010, 08:09 PM
Aaa Haa now that we see the other side of Keith's Garage I don't feel so bad about mine.
This whole project is just Too Cool!!!
Blues Traveler
02-28-2010, 12:35 AM
Aaa Haa now that we see the other side of Keith's Garage I don't feel so bad about mine.
This whole project is just Too Cool!!!
Yea, you caught me. Actually that sides not too bad if you venture further in past the bike. But I will admit that theirs stuff in box's I have'nt seen in years. And box's I don't even know whats in them. Have been told to not look inside and just throw them away, :eek: thats not going to happen.
This evening I went back out and did a little more work on the box. The side pannel stiffeners are now in place. Have had them made for sometime now and finally got around to locating and installing them.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10018.jpg
The stiffeners will not only stiffen up the side walls but also give me a place to run the wires for the rear lights.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10023.jpg
Was very carefull not to slip with the rivet gun which will make a whole bunch of dents rather quickly.
Im happy with the outcome.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject2-27-10021.jpg
bigTom
02-28-2010, 05:42 AM
Hooooo Boy! I spy a wheel on the ground, and a done box and a near receiver and all kinds of stuff....It won't be long now!
Really, seriously looking good, Keith.
dannyk
02-28-2010, 07:39 AM
Won't be long now :tent6: seriously good looking job.
Blues Traveler
02-28-2010, 06:48 PM
This morning just wanting to know I sat it on a bathroom scale to see how much it weighs at this point. Without the lid it weighs in at 61 lbs. :cool:
Blues Traveler
03-02-2010, 11:35 PM
Started on the top tonight. Brought home my pannel saw so I could do it right. Cut 2 1/2 inches of each side. The pannel is an inch short front to rear so I bought a piece of extrusion thats damn near a perfect fit. Will make a much better attachment point for the hindge.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-2-10006.jpg
The plan is to cut back the honeycomb roughly an inch and fill with something called hysol 1917. This will make the edges around the parimeter rock hard. Then make aluminum caps on each side and bury the hindge in doublers making it almost invisable. Latches will be off a RH Jesse bag that took a hit from an Audi S4 awhile back. Both will go on the rear. Big plus is that they are already keyed alike with the latches on the bike Jesse's. Yep, one key fits all.
Blues Traveler
03-06-2010, 11:09 PM
Spent the last couple of day's more or less just looking and figuring out how to do the lid. After pulling the tweaked Jesse box down from up in the top of the garage and taking off the latches I took a good look at how the rubber seal is held in place. Sort of changes things, in a good way. Did some measuring and got out the rest of the aluminum to layout and cut too size, Not enough material. :( At least not in the lengths needed. So this morning I headed down to the metal supply and got more. Also got a length of thick walled aluminum tubing for the lift handle up front.
This lid needs to be just right, im not going to rush it, have it figured out. Just need to do all the cuts and bends at work. The rubber seal im hoping to get from Jesse Luggage. If not i'll have to find another source.
Hitch is coming right along, got a peek at it yesterday, looking good.P^
Spent sometime this afternoon online and ordered up my tail lights. Got a set of these.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fst.htm
4" Red len's with 61 LED's in each. Got the PL-R3 pig tails (wiring) with right angle plugs and the GR-40 rubber gromets to mount them.
Even ordered up a new Metzler Tourance tire for the rear today as I was in a money spending mood. :cool:
GETTING CLOSE !!!
Whosoever
03-07-2010, 08:33 AM
^
Spent sometime this afternoon online and ordered up my tail lights. Got a set of these.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fst.htm
4" Red len's with 61 LED's in each. Got the PL-R3 pig tails (wiring) with right angle plugs and the GR-40 rubber gromets to mount them.
GETTING CLOSE !!!
Good choice on your taillights....when those babies light up the rear of the trailer will look like it is on fire. I've used LED's on my bikes with good success ever since I got rear ended. Will these lights "flash" prior to going solid. Be good if they did. Oh, yes one of other thing......seeing the other side of your garage has redeemed you in my book! Now things look normal!!
Have a great day my friend....I hate to see this project come to a close...what are we going to build next....you got me and most of this board..."hook line and sinker"! P^
Ironheadziggy76
03-07-2010, 11:09 PM
...what are we going to build next...
I don't know about everyone else, but I'd like to see Keith's skills on a sidecar tub! P^
Blues Traveler
03-08-2010, 07:36 AM
My next project is a Dodge Sprinter van. I have my Mustang convertable sold and will deliver as soon as I get the van. Think i've found one or should I say several, need time to go and check them out. Been looking at the Sprinters for sometime. 24 mpg., and with a 6'4" roof heigth inside, it will make the perfect bike hauler/camper.
bigTom
03-08-2010, 09:34 AM
Ahhh, Keith. You and I have had the exact same idea. I think it's the perfect choice!
Blues Traveler
03-10-2010, 11:30 PM
No pictures tonight just an update.
Tail lights showed up today along with my new back tire. P^ Got the rubber seal ordered from Jesse Luggage and should see it in a couple days. Very nice of them to go out of the way to sell me what I need to make it all work.
Last Sunday afternoon I layed everything out for the lid. Monday morning I went in early and made all my cuts. After work I stayed over and made all my bends. Last couple of nights i've been trying to figure out the right approach and order to cut, trim, and drill everything up. Pretty sure I got it figured out and started cutting a few parts to fit this evening.
As for the hitch? Its coming right along. I still have a couple more parts I need to get machined (the reciever) before it will hook up with the bike.
Blues Traveler
03-11-2010, 11:19 PM
Tonight I pulled the box off the project table and set it aside. Flipped the lid upside down on the table and began cutting and trimming parts to fit. Most will be 45° angles trimmed to fit. The very first cut I made I scrapped the part. After I cut the first 45° angle I went back to the table to put it in place and mark up the other end for another cut. Was puzzled :confused: at first as I flipped the part around trying to make it fit the corner, DOOOH! Had the part fipped on its side when I made the cut. Guess i'll go in early tomorrow and make another.
Got one end cut, located, drilled , and clecoed in place. What your seeing here is the flange that holds the rubber gasket.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-11-10003.jpg
Glad I messed that part up tonight as it gives me another day before the weekend to make another. Had it been Friday I would have been dead in the water till Monday.
Timmer
03-12-2010, 12:17 AM
I feel withdrawal pains starting already. Watching this build has been riveting. <pun intended>
Zippo
03-12-2010, 10:12 AM
Could you explain to me what "clecoed" means. Obviously it's some way to temporarily hold parts in place but could you explain it in a bit more detail, please? Thanks.
Blues Traveler
03-12-2010, 07:02 PM
Could you explain to me what "clecoed" means. Obviously it's some way to temporarily hold parts in place but could you explain it in a bit more detail, please? Thanks.
Found this in a quick search at Youtube. Tells and shows you what you need to know along with the different types of cleco's.
YouTube- ISI video series- How to Use Clecos
Trailace
03-14-2010, 09:21 AM
Found this in a quick search at Youtube. Tells and shows you what you need to know along with the different types of cleco's.
YouTube- ISI video series- How to Use Clecos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgEIVUVLrnQ)
Thanks I was wondering how they worked now go get that trailer done. LOL
Zippo
03-14-2010, 10:48 AM
Great! Thanks for posting the video. That really explained it well.
Blues Traveler
03-15-2010, 11:17 PM
I feel like I got quit a bit done tonight. Made all the corners fit really nice then clamped and drill everything up. Corners will get a nice doubler to cover the ends.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-15-10002.jpg
Next I need to prepare the front for the hindge by adding a little extra material here and there for strength.
Blues Traveler
03-16-2010, 11:12 PM
Yep, i've got a few, a bunch at work. Bought these just for the home project. There jus shy of 50 cents each. These will stay home when im done.
Spent time this evening on the mounting surface/flnge for the rubber seal/gasket I bought from Jesse Luggage.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-16-10004.jpg
I did change one thing though. Instead of bending the gasket on a 90° corner I cut a nice radius for the gasket to follow through the corner.
Ironheadziggy76
03-16-2010, 11:17 PM
Keith I'm running out of words to describe this trailer. Your detail work looks a lot better than anything you can buy. Excellent job! P^ P^ P^
Blues Traveler
03-18-2010, 11:40 PM
Just trying to do a little bit each night, can't wait till its all done. :rolleyes:
Tonight I started installing the fasteners around the lid. inside, outside, and on the top. Its still upside down here so you can see at least 2 rows of the 3 rows of fasteners that hold each edge in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-18-10002.jpg
This lid is unbelievably ridged, no flex at all. P^
Blues Traveler
03-20-2010, 10:55 PM
Denny had me feeling guilty about the mess on the otherside of the garage. So first this morning I went out and got myself a new compressor. And in order to get it where I wanted it I had to clean up that side of the garage, Thanks Denny.:D
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-20-100013.jpg
G Wizz, last night I actually at your request started counting rivets. Gave up for the time being when I got to 890 and still hadn't finished with the ones on the box let alone the lid.:eek:
Got the other 2 side attached this afternoon. Before puting them up I ran some wires throught the honeycomb all the way to the back for inside lid light and license plate light.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-20-100011.jpg
Looking for a place to sit the crumpled Jesse Box. Damn, why didn't I just do this in the first place.;)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-20-100015.jpg
Timmer
03-21-2010, 01:11 AM
A pair of those Jesse bags would look cool on the trailer frame.
Blues Traveler
03-23-2010, 11:47 PM
Got the hinge located and drilled on the front of the lid this evening.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-23-10001.jpg
the lower hinge will be covered just like the top half only adjustable for a perfect seal.
Cut some wooden strips to the size of .275 to set the distance for the Jesse Luggage gasket. All will be adjustable front and back.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/uni-goproject3-23-10004.jpg
canyonman
03-24-2010, 09:43 AM
Keith
Do you use a pattern to space the long rows of rivets evenly or do you measure for each hole individually?
Your spacing looks machine perfect.
Blues Traveler
03-25-2010, 12:00 AM
Keith
Do you use a pattern to space the long rows of rivets evenly or do you measure for each hole individually?
Your spacing looks machine perfect.
They're all layed out by hand. At work we do have something that will space everything out for you but I prefer to just make a line, measure from point A to point B, blue print tells you how many fasteners or spaces between these two points and then use a calculator and a scale to lay it all out.
As for being machine perfect? Thanks, i've been doing this a long time, maybe to long.:D
Here's my current project at work. A forword camera hatch in a Twin Otter. BIG hole cut in the floor after removing one entire fuel bay. Everything is built to engineering drawings. Hand making every part to print and making it all work. This to me is actually fun work.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/FWDCameraHatch001.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/?action=view¤t=FWDCameraHatch001.jpg)
Blues Traveler
03-25-2010, 11:32 PM
Tonight I got the hinges lower and upper mounts finished.
Here is a captive nutplate. Notice the O-ring, seals when riveted in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-25-10001.jpg
Inside you cane see them all mounted in place. All take a 10-32 screw/bolt and will hold on the lower hinge.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-25-10002.jpg
Finally! The top is in place! Everything lines up perfect. Opens and closes nice and smooth.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-25-10005.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-25-10006.jpg
Next are the Jesse luggage locking latches.
Timmer
03-25-2010, 11:34 PM
Simply stunning, Keith. I love the workmanship and can't wait to see it in Redmond this summer.
greybeard
03-26-2010, 08:16 AM
You sir do out standing work,I have followed this ever since it started and IMO the box will out last the trailer running gear by far GOOD JOB WELL DONE
Blues Traveler
03-27-2010, 07:11 PM
Oh Yea! Got the latches mounted and all the seal/gasket from Jesse Luggage inplace. Put the lid back on and buckled the latches down for the first time. Seal is nice and tight.P^ All that measuring paid off. Works better than the Jesse Luggage itself.
Big plus is that all the locks on the trailer and the bikes panniers and top box are all key'd alike.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject3-27-10002.jpg
Glad this parts done. Now if only the gas struts for opening the lid was done too.
motomac
03-27-2010, 07:31 PM
Absolutely great job Keith. I hope to see that in person some day.
Ironheadziggy76
03-27-2010, 10:35 PM
Keith, how is the hitch coming along?
Blues Traveler
04-02-2010, 11:19 PM
P^Keith, how is the hitch coming along?
Hitch is next. The hitch plate has all the holes in it and it bolts right up to the Jesse Luggage mounts on the bike. Just need to trim here and there and make it not look like a BIG 3/4" plate of aluminum. Will try to shave some weight off at the same time. This Uni-go trailer being one from New Zealand is one of the originals. The mount on the drawbar doesn't fit the reciever plate on the bike without a little trimming to make it fit nice and tight. The new ones have a spring loaded side load adjustment screw that takes up the slack when in place. Have tried for about 5 weeks now to aquire one from Uni-go in Ohio. Customer service doesn't seem to exsist at Uni-go. Have called at least 10 times, left at least 8 messages, and have not recieved a single call back.:mad: Have gone steps further by contacting 4 of there distributors. The 2 that did actually answer the phone when I called later on returned my calls after telling me that they talked with someone at Uni-go and that Uni-go now has my number and that they would contact me. That was 2 weeks ago. I've more or less givin up on them. There is so much more to the story that iI'd rather not get into right now. Don't want too but I guess i'll just have to make due with the one i've got.
Got the last couple of rivets in place tonight. Im sure there will be more later on but right now its ready for the Rino Linning. Tomorrow morning i'll load it in the back of the Edge and head to San Diego to get everything shot with Rino Linning. The plan is to leave the outside bare. What will get sprayed is the inside of the box, underneath inside the wheel well, the outside top of the lid, and the lower front for protection from rocks and road grit off the back wheel. And maybe, just maybe the bottom side of the lid too. Will have to see what the cost all comes too.
As mentioned above, the hitch is next. Have a trip coming up end of the month ( WARP at the Kern River ) and would very much like to do a first time shake down trip with it that weekend. Its going to be cutting it close but hopefully i'll have it ready for that weekend.
Black and Blue
04-03-2010, 11:53 AM
Keith
That's looking real good.P^ Soon you can be doing this:tent8: with it.:D
Mellow
04-04-2010, 07:26 AM
Keith, the Uni-go I had back in '01 was from NZ and had that setup, I'm assuming yours must be older than that?
I have a friend in Middletown OH that would probably stop by if you need a specific part. I've heard if you go there you get great service but their phone-support is a bit lacking.
Blues Traveler
04-04-2010, 06:32 PM
Keith, the Uni-go I had back in '01 was from NZ and had that setup, I'm assuming yours must be older than that?
I have a friend in Middletown OH that would probably stop by if you need a specific part. I've heard if you go there you get great service but their phone-support is a bit lacking.
Joe, my Uni-go Chassis is indeed a 2001. With the help of a couple a friends were going to try and make the one I have fit. They don't seem to think its going to be a problem. I think im just getting lazy :rolleyes: and want to get it done. Thought it would be an easy shortcut and all would be nice and shiny and new. Right now because of the lack of any customer service at all im through with them. I feel at the very least they could return at least one of my many,many,many, phone calls and messages.
Anyway, I dropped the box off at Rino Linnings of San Diego yesterday. They were happy when I told them they could have it till next Saturday.
EARTHQUAKE !!! How weird, we just had an earthquake as im sitting here typing along.
OK im back, short break as everyone went outside. ABC7 news say's it was a 6.9 centered somewhere south of the border near Mexicali. Must have rolled along for at least 35-40 seconds.
Back to the trailer. Rino Linnings was happy that I gave them a week. Said more time will allow them to do a really nice job on it.P^ Actually next week is probably the earlest I can pick it up anyway. It just seemed to work out better this way.
Its really weird walking out into the garage and its not seeing it up on the project table looking back at me.
I did spend a little time on the hitch plate this afternoon. Rounded off the corners and started with positioning my license plate frame and the new Addmorelighting lightbar which will replace the exsisting tail light and blinkers.
TripleThreat
04-04-2010, 07:28 PM
Can't wait to see it all completed. Been checking this thread every day since you started this project.
Mellow
04-05-2010, 06:08 AM
Glad that earthquake wasn't too bad for you Keith.
Keep up the good work on the trailer, I'm going to be sad when it's done...
Blues Traveler
04-07-2010, 10:58 PM
Ok, this doesn't look like much but this was 2 evenings of grinding just to make these two parts match. The trick was to make it a perfect fit with absolutely no side play.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10001.jpg
I took of a lot of material from both pieces. The cast in raised Uni-go emblem is gone now to make it all fit. This side lines up pretty good.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10007.jpg
But the other side was going to be a problem the second I layed eyes on it. For some unknown reason the hole in alongated.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10006.jpg
Since I have been unable to get a responce (6 weeks) from Uni-go for a new part Im going to have to make do with this, the original reciever. The good hole measures out at .495 which is 12 mm. The bad hole is .495 X .570. Now that I have a good match on both parts the plan is to clamp and line bore everything all the way through to .625 which is 5/8" of an inch. A 5/8" hitch pin will then make it all work.
Ironheadziggy76
04-07-2010, 11:26 PM
Doesn't look like much? Quality work takes time! P^ It's looking great so far. I'm anxious to see the rest of the hitch for the bike as I'm in the planning stages of one for the Wee.
Geez, they use a driveshaft & yoke for a hitch??? I've been following this amazing project & hope to see it at WARPED!!!!
bigTom
04-08-2010, 07:05 AM
I understand that I have different standards than you Keith, I'd never make the perfection standard. I'm a meatball mechanic:)
Why not drill both holes and press and weld a pipe through the whole thing? Would give you absolute line up, and a little 'wear' surface for later...
ImRubicon
04-08-2010, 07:11 AM
Uni-Go uses a spring and bolt to snug up the small amount of play in the reciever.P^
I dont like their connection eitehr though the drive shaft/ tounge type arm works pretty well.
Zippo
04-08-2010, 10:01 PM
Keith,
Before you go drilling all the holes larger in your hitch, why not have the elongated hole welded, then line bore it to the original pin size ?
G wizz
I agree. Drilling a larger hole will leave less "meat" between the edge of the hole and the edge of the bracket... But, given the top-notch work you've done to date, whatever you decide will probably work beautifully!
Blues Traveler
04-10-2010, 11:11 PM
Got the trailer box back today. Im happy with the the outcome but was a little disapointed at how much weight the Rino Linning added to the project.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-10-10007.jpg
Got home and started the final assembly. Had to grind a little here and there and clean out all the mounting holes.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-10-10010.jpg
The hole thing is pretty much bullet proof now, very ridged and now seems to be indistructable. The bottom is very thick, maybe up to 1/4" at the very bottom. Else where it pretty much 1/8" .
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-10-10009.jpg
After getting it somewhat assembled I sat it onthe bathroom scale and got a reading of 85 lbs., 15 lbs. more than a standard Uni-go. I still have the tail lights to mount and that will require two 4" holes in the rear just under the latches.
Blues Traveler
04-11-2010, 12:36 AM
Will you need to register your trailer and plate it, or don't you have to do that in California?
Looks to be a BIG gray area regarding just what a motorcycle is according to the CA vehical code.
I'd say my setup meets the requirments and defination of subdivision (a).
The following is out of the CA. Vehical Code under section 400.
Motorcycle
400. (a) A “motorcycle” is a motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider, designed to travel on not more than three wheels in contact with the ground.
(b) A motor vehicle that has four wheels in contact with the ground, two of which are a functional part of a sidecar, is a motorcycle if the vehicle otherwise comes within the definition of subdivision (a).
(c) A farm tractor is not a motorcycle.
(d) A three-wheeled motor vehicle that otherwise meets the requirements of subdivision (a), has a partially or completely enclosed seating area for the driver and passenger, is used by local public agencies for the enforcement of parking control provisions, and is operated at slow speeds on public streets, is not a motorcycle. However, a motor vehicle described in this subdivision shall comply with the applicable sections of this code imposing equipment installation requirements on motorcycles.
Amended Sec. 1, Ch. 672, Stats. 2008. Effective January 1, 2009.
kvocal
04-11-2010, 01:34 AM
Looks to be a BIG gray area regarding just what a motorcycle is according to the CA vehical code.
I'd say my setup meets the requirments and defination of subdivision (a).
The following is out of the CA. Vehical Code under section 400.
Motorcycle
400. (a) A “motorcycle” is a motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the use of the rider, designed to travel on not more than three wheels in contact with the ground.
(b) A motor vehicle that has four wheels in contact with the ground, two of which are a functional part of a sidecar, is a motorcycle if the vehicle otherwise comes within the definition of subdivision (a).
(c) A farm tractor is not a motorcycle.
(d) A three-wheeled motor vehicle that otherwise meets the requirements of subdivision (a), has a partially or completely enclosed seating area for the driver and passenger, is used by local public agencies for the enforcement of parking control provisions, and is operated at slow speeds on public streets, is not a motorcycle. However, a motor vehicle described in this subdivision shall comply with the applicable sections of this code imposing equipment installation requirements on motorcycles.
Amended Sec. 1, Ch. 672, Stats. 2008. Effective January 1, 2009.
Loved reading about the project. Truly inspiring.
A good idea may be to check with a local dealer who sales trailers to see what the requirements areP^
Blues Traveler
04-11-2010, 08:58 PM
Today I cut some big holes in the back of the box for these superbright LED tail light assemblies. Yea, they look kind of BIG but I do want to be seen when pulling this trailer. Each has 60 LED's giving me a has to be seen 120 superbright LED's to the rear.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-11-10004.jpg
Still have a couple side markers to install towards the front.
Here's a side view of it just about done.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-11-10007.jpg
denny
04-11-2010, 10:30 PM
Holly Smokes Keith ...
Either that Rino Coating is really heavy, or else you used extra heavy Aluminum.
Are those Rivets heavy?
bigTom
04-12-2010, 07:33 AM
Yahoo, looking better and better! That's some fine stuff....
canyonman
04-13-2010, 02:13 PM
Keith
It is truly a work of art. If everything this country made was as good as your trailer we would still be on top.
Very very nice. I hope to see it in person some day. Oh and meet you as well!
wehteh
04-14-2010, 11:38 AM
Keith,
Great looking project.
Will look forward to your first report on how it handles on the road.P^
Frank
David R
04-14-2010, 06:07 PM
Keith
It is truly a work of art. If everything this country made was as good as your trailer we would still be on top.
Very very nice. I hope to see it in person some day. Oh and meet you as well!
Ditto... Enjoy! :tent3:
Blues Traveler
04-14-2010, 11:46 PM
Last night I took a little more off the hitch reciever plate before runing the reamer through everything. Actually came out pretty nice. On the drill press I did a little counter boring/spot facing to get the 2 1/2" quick release pin to lock in place.
You are still seeing a lot of extra material on this piece of 3/4" 6061-T6 aluminum plate. Figured before making it all pretty i'd make sure its going to work.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-14-10005.jpg
I have a new tail light, actually a light bar made by admorelight that will be attached at the top of the plate. All LED, turn signals, running lights, and stop light. Was'nt cheap but its very cool :cool: and hi-tech.
The backside has had a few pockets machined out to knock off a little weight. Attachment bolts are between the machined pockets. Hard to see but the main (BIG) piece of aluminum has a 1/4" machined slot on the backside that the other piece index's into (perfect fit) before recieving the 6 flush 3/8" flush fasteners.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-14-10006.jpg
Just for the hell of it I went ahead and hooked everything up. Everything comes down about level when I place myself on the bike. Was told to expect this and set the hitch heigth with me on the bike.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-14-10001.jpg
Once done the license plate and new light bar can be seen over the top of the trailer. Something I was actually shooting for.
denny
04-15-2010, 01:29 AM
This just gets better every time you post pics.
Have you thought about a pair of folding legs on the front? That would be cool to use it as a Table/Kitchen when camped for a few days in the same campsite.
Looks like you have enough room in there that you'll not need to haul anything at all on the bike.
bigTom
04-15-2010, 07:01 AM
denny: Look closely at Keith's avatar. He's got a cook station and table set up already!
This is just too cool. I can't wait to see it!
canyonman
04-15-2010, 11:02 AM
I dig the little skull thingy P^
Mellow
04-15-2010, 11:05 AM
I dig the little skull thingy P^
Not me.. that thing creeps me out.. LOL
Great job Keith. It needs a turret.
canyonman
04-15-2010, 01:56 PM
Not me.. that thing creeps me out.. LOL
:lol2:lol2:lol2
Mellow
04-15-2010, 05:34 PM
Mellow ...
Just saw your new picture ... Did someone strap you in a straight jacket ? :D
You've heard of the Blue Man Group... well, we formed a new Hip Hop group called the Hi-Viz Man Group.
Timmer
04-15-2010, 10:31 PM
Keith,
Is there a set of lower bars that will help reduce the twisting action on the bike's rear subframe? From the last set of pictures it looks like a lot of possible torsion flex could occur. Or am I missing something in the design?
Again, great workmanship and attention to detail.
Blues Traveler
04-15-2010, 11:36 PM
Keith,
Is there a set of lower bars that will help reduce the twisting action on the bike's rear subframe? From the last set of pictures it looks like a lot of possible torsion flex could occur. Or am I missing something in the design?
Again, great workmanship and attention to detail.
Was hoping to stay away from any lower bars. I was hoping the Jesse Luggage mounts would be strong and stiff enough. But looks as though im going to have to add a couple of more bars/supports down low. Another problem i've encountered is a lot of play in one of the bearing cups on the top of the universal joint. Amazing how much a little movement up front amplifies it as it moves towards the back of the trailer.
Could be an easy fix if I new what automotive U-joint was used here.
No one said it was going to be easy.:rolleyes: Would be nice if everything was right from the get go. As expected its just going to take a little time to get it all sorted out.
SidecarMike
04-16-2010, 08:32 AM
The coupler looks like a Ford. They only have a half dozen yoke variations. Measure the cup diameter and the length across from cup to cup and a parts house should be able to help you out. http://www.actionmachineinc.com/ujointmeasuringguide.aspx
Keith, go to a NAPA store with your u-joint or the measurements. They usually have someone there that can find something without knowing what it came off of.
You may be able to just take the yoke part (front) in if both sets of cups are the same size & they can find it from that.
Blues Traveler
04-18-2010, 06:49 PM
Keith, go to a NAPA store with your u-joint or the measurements. They usually have someone there that can find something without knowing what it came off of.
You may be able to just take the yoke part (front) in if both sets of cups are the same size & they can find it from that.
Thanks Larry, that exsactly what I did. Pressed out the old one and took it to Napa. The Girls was gone maybe 5 minutes and she matched it up for me. $23 to solve this problem was well worth it.
Last night I spent time locating the new lightbar from Admorelight.com. and lisence plate. Had a few problems with the 2 grounds and such with the lightbar but Mike ( the Rackman ) Roberts came by and he helped me get it all sorted out.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-18-10001.jpg
This afternoon I pressed in the new u-joint, bolted the drawbar back up and took it for its firts test ride around the block.:D Yea, thats about the size of the grin :D I had as I circled the block. Really, you can't even tell its there. Made a pass by the house and hit the button to close the garage door and went for a ride. First stop, Mike's house.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-18-10003.jpg
Not a pretty site, damn do I look fat. Anyway, afterwords I went for a ride to do a little shake down with it. First let me point out that I had my sleeping bag and mattress, tent, crazycreek chair, and my new 16' X 16' Kelty tarp and Kelty colapsable pole set with straps. I figure 25-30 pounds. My first trip was through Quail Valley. I nice little set of twisties that climbs up out of the valley and ends the backside of Canyon lake. P^ Once again, you can barley tell its there. Turned around and headed back through the same twisties past the Parris Airport and jumped on the freeway to give it the freeway test at speed. With strong side winds up to the freeway (not a problem) I got on the 215 and headed south into the wind. Cruising at 65-70 mph for about 5-6 miles I got off and headed home. Total miles for the first test, 25-30 miles.
I'd say the trailer passed it first road test with flying colors.
Still need to run a few wires for the tailights and put the rest of my gear in for a little more testing as I plan to pull it to the Kern River for the ADVrider WARP camping trip this weekend.
And the hitch? It worked out just as planned. No extra struts, nice and stout, I expect no problems. One the U-joint was replaced everything seemed just fine.
Timmer
04-18-2010, 07:11 PM
Nice first trailer ride report! Looking forward to seeing it in person at the BMWMOA rally in July.
Mr. Guy
04-18-2010, 07:43 PM
I'm sure I'm showing my ignorance, but WWJWD?
Oh, and very nice trailer.
Guy
Blues Traveler
04-18-2010, 08:33 PM
I'm sure I'm showing my ignorance, but WWJWD?
Oh, and very nice trailer.
Guy
Had someone ask the very samething this morning.
:DWhat Would John Wayne Do ?:D
Blues Traveler
04-18-2010, 08:35 PM
Hey Keith ...
How come I didn't see a Motocamper sticker stuck anywhere on the back of your saddlebags ??? :confused:
Been busy and mostly lazy but now that the new reflective stickers are happening i'll make sure it happens.P^
Hey, Keith, glad that worked out for ya. See you at WARPED!!!!!
Black and Blue
04-18-2010, 10:31 PM
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-18-10003.jpg
Not a pretty site, damn do I look fat.
No, you don't look fat, just well rested for a good road trip.:D
bigTom
04-19-2010, 07:05 AM
Hey, Keith. Looking very good!
I thought of you yesterday, I passed a gaggle (4) 'wings pulling uni-go trailers, and thinking how much better your unit looks...
Whosoever
04-19-2010, 06:34 PM
Well Keith...I guess winter is over...as you have closed the last chapter of the book. Your gonna fill that thing with "stuff" and take off......but what are the rest of us going to do for entertainment? I guess it is time to get off the couch and do likewise. You've done an admirable job! Congratuations..:D
Mr. Guy
04-19-2010, 07:47 PM
"Male menopause is a lot more fun than female menopause. With female menopause you gain weight and get hot flashes. Male menopause ? you get to date young girls and drive motorcycles."----- John Wayne
"I'm the stuff men are made of"---- John Wayne
2 of my favorite John Wayne quotes.
Guy
canyonman
04-20-2010, 12:17 AM
Keith
Before you take off for the season,did the gal at NAPA happen to say what ujoint she matched it up with? Be good info for future reference.
Blues Traveler
04-20-2010, 07:34 AM
Keith
Before you take off for the season,did the gal at NAPA happen to say what ujoint she matched it up with? Be good info for future reference.
Other than the receipt and the box having the part number 341 I have no idea what it fits.
SidecarMike
04-20-2010, 08:25 AM
Other than the receipt and the box having the part number 341 I have no idea what it fits.
I know that number. I have the box label hanging on my toolbox.
1974 MGB.
Bearing Type & Size : 4 Plain, 0.938 "
ID Dimensions : 2.41 "
:cool:
canyonman
04-20-2010, 12:40 PM
I know that number. I have the box label hanging on my toolbox.
1974 MGB.
Bearing Type & Size : 4 Plain, 0.938 "
ID Dimensions : 2.41 "
:cool:
holy automotive trivia mike nice save. thanks both of you.
Blues Traveler
04-22-2010, 12:06 AM
Have been doing a little more testing. Added more gear to the load. Put in what I figured would be just what I wanted to get off the bike. Went for a ride to see how it all worked out. Everything went fine until I did a hard pass around a huge 4 wheel drive truck. :eek: I experianced my first wagging at speed. Not real bad, just backed off the throttle slowly and it came back under control. I know now after thinking about it and looking at the ride heigth with more gear I need to move the drawbar down to bring the front of the trailer up. Same with the hitch. Its going to take a little time to get it all sorted out and figure out the best packing and distribution of weight.
Was hoping to use it for the first time this weekend but feel a 500+ mile trip might not be the best thing for a first time trip. I have so much time in this trailer I feel its best to leave it home and spend a little more time getting it all sorted out. Would hate to see something happen to it at this point in time.
Still going, just without the trailer.
Guess i'll just have to do several camping trips :D with it over the next few months before the BIG ONE in Redmond OR. this July
denny
04-22-2010, 12:36 AM
I guess you mean that you will adjust it by changing the position of the plate on the front of the trailer? like in this pic?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-14-10006.jpg
Do you have to remove the body to change that?
Mellow
04-22-2010, 06:50 AM
That is typical with such a short 'arm' on a trailer.. However, from my memory, I believe the uni-go is supposed to tilt up just a bit to help put more weight on the wheel and to load more of the heavy stuff low and to the rear.
http://mellow.smugmug.com/2003/Apr-11-14-Petit-Jean-State/pic016839750/58245531_H8LCu-M.jpg
Mine would still wobble when passing trucks but that's just the dirty air and the tilting and packing will help however, I think it's more of an issue with a trailer that has such a short tow bar... just physics..
ImRubicon
04-22-2010, 09:41 AM
My unigo doe it also but it really changes depending on how the weight is loaded on it
Mellow
04-22-2010, 09:44 AM
My unigo doe it also but it really changes depending on how the weight is loaded on it
So, pack all the heavy stuff low or low and as close to the wheel as possible?
ImRubicon
04-22-2010, 09:57 AM
Thats it just pack right and the ride changes a lot .
Also I want to angle the front frame bars (?) on the bottom as I did snag them once going in a steep driveway . Or I could wait and just grind them off a little at a time :eek:
Mellow
04-22-2010, 10:12 AM
Thats it just pack right and the ride changes a lot .
Also I want to angle the front frame bars (?) on the bottom as I did snag them once going in a steep driveway . Or I could wait and just grind them off a little at a time :eek:
I'll some pics from your album...
http://www.motocampers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=338
http://www.motocampers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=96
Blues Traveler
04-22-2010, 06:45 PM
Keith,
You might have to either reconfigure your hitch and or mounts, or learn to ride, while towing it, a little more conservatively and cautiously to keep it under control.
Just my thoughts ...
G wizz
I believe your right. Right after passing that truck (very agressive) and then experiancing my very first wag I thought to myself. Keith, your pulling a trailer, ride like your pulling a trailer. Next week i'll move a few thingsd around. Try a different pack, thought I had and do have all the heavy items down low. And most of all get the tailights all hooked up and working. The bike, I finally got the new tailight and lightbar all straightened out along with a pigtail and plug for the trailer. Would be nice to have lights on the trailer hooked up.
Whosoever
04-22-2010, 08:07 PM
What I know about aerodynamics you could put in a thimble, fill it with water and float the Queen Mary. However as I look at the different Unigo trailer configurations here on the forum there seems to be significant difference in the frontal area of your design verses the "egg" design of the original trailer. I know that when my top box is on the back of my FJR, side turbulence coming at it from a 45 degree angle can make the bike rather squirrley. Could the amount of flat surface combined with the short tow arm, and the single rear wheel be a consideration?
Mellow
04-23-2010, 06:35 AM
I'm not so sure the shape makes much difference.. once you're next to the truck I can see how the 'edges' of Keith's trailer might catch the wind more than the non-edges of the factory unigo body... However, the same problem exists with the factory uni-go so either it's more of an issue with Keith and we just don't know OR the shape doesn't matter.
Beats me.
Blues Traveler
04-23-2010, 08:21 AM
I too doubt the shape will make all that much of a difference. The first day I was whipping it pretty good for the first time out. 2nd time out i'd thrown a little more weight in it and like I said, all was fine until I made my move on that slow going 4X4. Im confident with a little help from the collective here (seems to be many pulling trailers now) I can get this all sorted out. Its not all that far off right now. Was still tempted to hook it up and pack it while I was packing the bike last night for today's trip to the Kern River.
Pretty sure i'll survive without it this weekend.:(
nimrod
04-23-2010, 08:02 PM
Ok, this doesn't look like much but this was 2 evenings of grinding just to make these two parts match. The trick was to make it a perfect fit with absolutely no side play.P^
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10001.jpg
I took of a lot of material from both pieces. The cast in raised Uni-go emblem is gone now to make it all fit. This side lines up pretty good.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10007.jpg
But the other side was going to be a problem the second I layed eyes on it. For some unknown reason the hole in alongated.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goProject4-7-10006.jpg
Since I have been unable to get a responce (6 weeks) from Uni-go for a new part Im going to have to make do with this, the original reciever. The good hole measures out at .495 which is 12 mm. The bad hole is .495 X .570. Now that I have a good match on both parts the plan is to clamp and line bore everything all the way through to .625 which is 5/8" of an inch. A 5/8" hitch pin will then make it all work.
If that part is not absolutely rock solid to your hitch you'll not get rid of your "wagging'. Mine (Unitrak) has a tensioning bolt in addition to the pin.
Blues Traveler
04-28-2010, 10:49 PM
If that part is not absolutely rock solid to your hitch you'll not get rid of your "wagging'. Mine (Unitrak) has a tensioning bolt in addition to the pin.
Oh, its tight. I've made sure of that to the point you need to slightly pry the top apart to seperate the hitch from the reciever. If it loosens up i'll add tension a tension bolt as it does sound like a really good idea.
This evening I moved the drawbar down on the front of the chassis to bring the front of the trailer up just a bit. Still might move it one more hole set. Took it for another ride this afternoon and it seems to work very well. I had a bunch of gear in it for the test but the bike is still empty. Need to pack everything as if I was going on a trip and test again.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject4-28-10001.jpg
Trailer looks high in the front in above picture but settles down to almost level when I climb on board. I've been told and IMO it needs to be about an inch higher at the front of the drawbar at the hitch.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d59/ownst1100/Uni-goproject4-28-10005.jpg
bigTom
04-29-2010, 06:18 AM
Boy. That is looking seriously good, Keith. Yahoo!!!
Blues Traveler
05-03-2010, 12:41 AM
Mike (therackman) Roberts followed me down Ortega Hwy. on his Gold Wing into Lake Elsinore this afternoon after Breakfast at Hell's Kitchen. Wth Camera in hand he took this footage of Project Uni-go in action.
YouTube- Project Uni-go TEST RIDE.
Not too bad once thie slow moving cage finally pulledover and got out of the way.
motomac
05-03-2010, 05:46 AM
I love that road. Looks like you've got it sorted out pretty good Keith. How is the high speed straight line now???
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